Wednesday, September 07, 2011

Find The Top 8 Carpet Extractors

Carpet extractors are an excellent method of basic economical in depth carpet cleaning. Carpet extractors will clean your entire carpet, remove spots and stains, keep high traffic areas clean, and they'll even clean your upholstery and drapery. Here are the top 8 carpet extractors.

1. Dirtdevil Featherlight Carpet Extractor

The dirtdevel featherlight is a lightweight and very portable carpet extractor. Comes with a 5 brush nozzle system which will gently clean your carpets and the powerful vacuum will dry the carpets quickly. It has a 1 gallon reservoir for your cleaning solution, and a nice wide nozzle.

2. AX9 Carpet Extractor

The AX9 is designed to clean almost any surface no matter how tough the access it will get into those tight crevices. That's because it comes with a complete set of accessories to make the job easy. It provides total dryness with only one sweep. Complete with an ergonomic handle that makes moving it around more comfortable.

3. EAG 1400

The EAG 1400 is a commercial size carpet extractor that will clean up your commercial or home space. Built much like a wet/dry vac it has a dual two stage vacuum motor that provides maximum power. It has a 12 gallon solution tank as well as a 12 gallon recovery tank. The 8 large castor rear wheels, and 3 front castors make it easy to maneuver. It has a 25 foot cord so will reach and a 15 foot vacuum hose.

4. Admiral 8

The Admiral 8 comes with an ergonomic and adjustable handle with finger tip controls for operation. This no hose design makes it easy to fill and empty. It can also be purchased with the hard floor cleaning kit.

5. Ext 311 Extractor

The Ext 311 has a nice compact carpet extractor that pulls soil from the carpet effectively. The 2 stage vacuum motor, 10 foot hose, and a 9 inch and 10 inch heavy duty tool will clean any carpet easily. It has an 11 gallon solution tank and recover bucket can be removed to empty. Easy to roll along on the 2 inch casters.

6. The Speedster Carpet Extractor

The Speedster comes with 100 PSI solution pump and dual two stage vacuum motors that have a 150 degree water lift. The large rear wheels and grip handle makes this extractor easy to maneuver and move around.

7. Clean NB 48 Carpet Extractor

The NB 48 is complete with heat to dry up behind you. This commercial carpet extractor is one of the best sellers for professionals. 10 foot wand, 20 foot hose.

8. Harding 1408 Carpet Extractor

The Harding 1408 has a forward reverse brush action which gets down deep and takes less time to clean. It has an 8 gallon solution and recovery bladder as well as two sets of spray nozzles which work independently, and a 14 inch shoe. All lines are built inside so there are no outside lines. Comes complete with 40 foot chord.

These are 8 top carpet extractors but there are many many other excellent products on the market. The carpet extractor you choose will depend on how much carpet you have to clean, and how often. The one thing that has been proven over and over is that carpet extractors will extend the life of your carpets and keep them looking fresh and new.

About The Author
John Murray makes it easy to go through the carpet buying process and provides tips to keep your carpet lasting long. To learn more and receive your free mini-course visit: http://www.carpets-guide.com.

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Tuesday, October 05, 2010

How To Clean A Cuckoo Clock

When it comes time to clean your cuckoo clock, it is essential that you take the proper steps to ensure any potential damage to the timepiece. Clocks that are cleaned by improper methods can cause these items to shift, break, or become damaged so that the clock will fail to keep the proper time or stop working completely. If you are concerned about the status of your clock, consider taking it to a professional clockmaker or a jeweler who specializes in clocks for a cleaning or repairs so you can be certain your clock will last to cuckoo again.

When it comes time to clean you cuckoo clock, consider the clock itself is two actual pieces. The first piece of the clock is the case. Typically made of solid hardwoods, the case of your clock should be properly maintained to keep the beauty of the wood. Additionally, most cuckoo clocks are decorated with heavy carvings or wooden figurines, so you should take great care in cleaning the more decorative clocks due to the fragility of these items. Finally, clocks that have painted details or decorations should be carefully cleaned, since some cleansing agents can remove or damage the wood's finish or the paint itself. Turn to products that will gently remove and dirt, grime, and build up accumulated over the years of display or storage. For general cleaning, avoid using furniture polishes or waxes that can add to your problem. Instead, consider dry dusting or use products made with natural oils like lemon oil or orange oil to keep the wood properly nourished to prevent cracking.

The main workings of the clock are held within the case. These workings are often tiny and intricate, proving to be easily lost or damaged, so take the cleaning process with the utmost care. Before you begin the cleaning process, assemble the necessary cleaning tools. Often, the best tool you can use to cleaning clocks or any other items with small working parts is a simple Q-tip and soapy water. Take care not to soak the clock or any materials with water or any other liquid. Also, use a gentle touch to swab the piece instead of scrubbing the items. Although dirt or grime can stop a clock from running, the workings of a clock do not need to be scrubbed clean in order to work. Unless you have experience working with clocks, it is strongly suggested that you leave the heavy cleanings to the professionals.

A cuckoo clock is a great piece to add character and beauty to any home. Having a clock in clean and working condition is essential for any owner of a cuckoo clock, especially if you are looking to keep the clock as an heirloom piece for future generations.

About The Author
John Marcus specializes in clocks, find out more at http://www.1-cuckoo-clocks.com.

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Monday, October 04, 2010

Weed Burners What Are They And How To Use Them

One of the main stay problems that the average gardener faces are the endless on-slaught of weeds. Many of these unwanted plants are rather easy to rid yourself of while others can be as persistant as the day is long. In either case your looking at a possible hard days' labor or the use of a chemical herbicide which may hurt you or the environment. In this article we are going to dissuss an alternative to hand pulling or chemicals. Fire!

What is it..?

A weedburner is a very effective tool at destroying unwanted plant foliage. Weedburners are devices that consist of a propane fuel tank, a fuel hose, a metal wand with a burner head and a control valve for controlling the gas. There are hand held varieties which are very similar in their function, but these use disposable propane tank that screw onto the burner wand. The hand held burners are much less powerful and far more expensive to use, so otherwise not recommend for most uses.

Purchasing

Weedburners are readily available on the internet and many hardware-garden stores. The majority of weedburners are very similar in design and function. It's most important that you feel comfortable with the burner and it's controls. The one real variance that weedburns do have is their BTU rating. The BTU rating is a measure of how much heat is produced by the burner. The higher the BTU rating, the higher the amount of heat available to kill plant foliage. If your weedburner does not come with a striker or some other type of igniter, then you may need to purchase one. A welders' torch striker will work just fine. Before you make your purchase of a weedburner for the first time, you should take a moment to become familiar with your local laws regarding the ownership and use of the device. Some localities disallow the use of weedburners at certain times of the year, while others disallow them out right. Many localities demand that a fire extinguisher be present while the weedb!

Pre-fire preparation

Before you light your weedburner for the first time, make sure all connections are tight and sealed. It is also highly recommend that you have a propane tank with a safety release valve. All new tanks have this type of valve. With out this type of valve, if the tank were to tip over while in use, liquid propane would flow through the fuel line. This would cause a very dangerous situation. To ease the use of the burner, we would recommend the use of a dolly or a garden wagon to tote around your propane tank. Before you use the weedburner, have a fire extinguisher, garden hose , bucket of water or some other method of extinguishing a fire ready and waiting.

Where do we use it?

A weedburner is best suited for areas such as gravel walks or drives, sidewalks or patio cracks, fence lines or other open areas. Survey the area before using the weedburner and remove all flammable material as much as possible. Dry leaves and dry grass are generally the biggest flame risk, so remove as much of this debris before use.

How do we use it?

The use is rather straight forward. The larger the flame, the larger the killing area. The goal is not to burn the plant foliage, but to sightly cook it. When the flame initially makes contact with the foliage, you may see steam rise from the plant. The plant may also wilt or change color. This is the tell tale signs that the foliage is destroyed. You can check the progress of the over all kill by pressing some foliage between you thumb and fore finger. This should leave an impression and will be darker than the rest of the leaf.

Final Thoughts

Weedburners are a good alternative to chemical herbicides, but the user must understand that weedburners are used as a weed management tool. It may take several uses to fully kill off perennial weeds. Care should always be taken when using a burner not to set weeds on fire or to scorch valuable plants. We have had some positive results using weedburners to sterilize soil and rid infested areas of weed seeds. By no means is this a scientific study, but an observation by us and some of our clients. Weedburners also have other uses beyond weed control. Many potters who fire their pottery Raku style use these burners to heat their homemade kilns and weedburners are also good alternative to salt on frozen sidewalks.

About The Author
Timothy Waggoner is the owner and operator of the Yard Works Gardening Co of Bellingham Washington. More articles by timothy can be found at: http://resources.ywgc.com

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Wednesday, September 29, 2010

How to Really Declutter Your Home for Buyers

Your real estate agent has come to your house to assess what needs to be done to sell it the quickest. The word, "declutter," continues to come up. You assure your agent that you are a very neat person and that everything will be clean when the potential buyers come to view it. Many sellers encounter the same situation each day. What agents wish their clients would understand is that decluttering is more than just keeping the baseboards dust-free and the countertops wiped down. Try some of the following tips and wow your real estate agent, and especially, your buyers.

With pen, paper and clipboard in hand, tour the outside of your home, then the inside. As much as possible, pretend that you don't own the house and even that you've never seen the place. You will quickly see what your real estate agent meant by decluttering when you use this new perspective. Write down anything which is the least bit offensive to the eye, including unruly hoses, toys in the front yard, a busy mantle above the fireplace and newspapers stacked up in the laundry room. The list will seem longer the more times you go through the process. However, the more you notice, the more prepared your home will be for eagle-eyed buyers.

The biggest stumbling block for sellers preparing their home for the market is their lingering attachment to their house. From repainting a room neutral, to taking family photos off the wall, sellers must accept that their time in that particular house is coming to an end. To counteract this mental block, take your most personal items out of rooms first. Get plenty of clear plastic tubs, or boxes to store your items. Treat the decluttering process as if you are preparing a model home for viewing. In order to sell your home, you have to give the buyers room to imagine their personal belongings. Little forward-thinking daydreams about decorating your new abode should also counteract those strong attachments.

A good round of decluttering will often leave you with a pile of boxes and bins to contend with. Although stacking them up in a closet seems like a nice, out-of-the-way option, this may not be the best choice. Consider that closet space is often one of the key selling points for a home. Closets should look as impeccable as possible. This will aid greatly in creating a spacious feeling. If the closets are crowded and messy, the buyer may think that your home is just not big enough, even if it has the square footage they want.

Your garage is the most acceptable place for storage in the mind of the buyers. Of course, not everyone has this luxury. If you can convince a family member, friend, or even a neighbor to let you store those boxes and crates, then take advantage of the opportunity. However, if you really need or want your storage items in the house, then try to stack them up in the least conspicuous place you can find. A playroom or basement can usually stand to have a few of these bins stashed in the corner. Better yet, think about renting a temporary storage facility to house these things.

Despite all your efforts, be prepared to hear your Tampa Bay Florida real estate agent tell you that you still have too many belongings cluttering the house. If this happens, just remember that they're on your side and that they're the expert. Also, remember that a well-decluttered house is your quickest ticket to a "Sold!" sign.

About The Author
Bob Lipply is a licensed broker associate with Remax Realtec in Palm Harbor, Florida. He has many years of experience in selling Tampa Bay Florida Real Estate and has helped many families relocate to Florida and find their dream homes. Visit his website at http://www.lipplyrealestate.com or contact him direct at 1-888-423-5775. e-mail address is info@lipplyrealestate.com

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Monday, September 27, 2010

Information About Trash Can Liners.

What makes a good trash can liner good? For over 15 years I've helped people who come in to our cleaning supply facility find the exact product that they're looking for. From repeated feedback and just generally spending the time to talk to out customers I have found that when people buy can liners they buy it because they have individual needs and they're looking for the perfect can liner for their application. There is a lot of information and terminology in the trash bag industry and so there should be because there are hundreds of different types of can liners. Trash can liners are packaged in different ways and be made of different materials. Trash can liners also come in many colors but the main colors in the cleaning industry are black, clear and tan. Usually other colors of trash can liners convey a specific use for that liner; a great example of this is that red trash can liners are usually used in health care facilities. Trash can liner size is probably the most important factor when purchasing a trash can liner. When you fit your trash can liner into your waste container the trash bag should fit tightly to the top of the waste container without stretching it and the bottom of the can liner should reach all the way to the bottom of the waste container. Trash can liners also come in may different types of packaging. Some of these types of packing include rolled trash can liners, rolled coreless can liners and loose flat pack. The last trait of a can liner you should be concerned about is type of plastic the can liner is made from. The two main types of grades of trash can liners is linear low density trash can liners and high density trash can liners.

When choosing a color for your trash can liner take a look at what you are going to use the trash can liner for. Black trash can liners are great for concealing garbage and are generally used for everyday trash. Clear trash can liners are usually required by law and ordinances in some cities for recycling products. Clear liners ensure that the contents of the bag is recyclable just by looking at the full bag. Most clear trash can liners are classed as a linear low density liner.

The size of the trash bag is very important. A trash can that is to small for your waste receptacle can tear when you are fitting it in. If the trash can liner does not reach all the way to the bottom of your receptacle it can break under the weight of the garbage in it. A liner that is to large can easily slip all the way into the waste receptacle and be lost in the garbage as it is filled up with trash. To be sure that your are purchasing a trash bag that is the right size for your waste receptacles you should check with the manufacturer specs of your waste container for exact dimensions.

The way a trash can liner is packaged is also a consideration to be taken when purchasing them. Flat pack can liners are packaged separately and then folded into a rectangular box. Flat pack liners are great when you are purchasing large volumes of trash can liners because they can be easily stacked. Roll trash bags are perfect for janitor carts or trash can liner wall dispensers. Some roll trash can liners are joined by a perforation on the roll and are torn from the roll gently when you get one. Coreless can liners are rolled into rolls without a core. These trash can liners are great if your trying to save space.

The two main types or classes of toilet paper are linear low density and high density. Linear low density liners stretch when you press against the plastic. This type of trash can liner is great for regular indoor garbage that is light weight and does not contain and sharp materials. Linear low density liners are for the most part is more water resistant and have a tighter seal at the bottom of the liner. High density liners are made from a thicker plastic that has much less stretching capacity than linear low density trash can liners. High density liners are great for large and heavy objects and larger waste containers.

Overall, when purchasing a trash can liner make sure it is made by a reputable company and don't be afraid to ask if the manufacturer has had any recent defective bags. From my past experience at least 1 in every one hundred cases of trash bags is usually defective.

About The Author
Great cleaning tips and cleaning information by Lee Harris can be found at http://www.monsterjanitorial.com. Lee Harris is an expert in the cleaning industry and can answer all your questions about trash can liners.

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Friday, July 10, 2009

A High End Cleaner Machine

Bulk debris could be a menace to the public or would slow down traffics inside an industrial environment. Applying highly workable vacuum cleaners for exclusive industrial purpose to suction the pile of waste materials could command the great need that'd impossibly be done by manual labor lacking full-packed energy and full speed.

Industrial Vacuum Cleaner is prepared to suction considerable amount of waist materials scattered in commercial areas with high-junk disposables. It is a highly designed high-powered machine produced to meet the demands in collecting considerable volume of manufacturing facilities with tremendous capabilities and efficacy even the tiniest littered drop in a certain area.

IDENTIFYING FUNCTIONS OF THE INDUSTRIAL VACUUM CLEANER FROM OTHER VACUUM CLEANERS

It has high output level and has a large capacity compartment to suction wide range of material waste. Also, it can be applied to special rooms that require the "dust free" environment such as micro-processing of software, and minute electronic items on whose quality or standard devaluates if corrupted by the smallest particle of waste matter and dust. Industrial vacuum cleaner takes in to filter the air to make the whole area and every technical device virtually dust free.

Capacity includes that of monitoring to clean wet and dry materials, either one or both ways. There are vacuum cleaners of the industrial types of specific brands to do on "allergen" free suctioning. Vacuum systems could vary in use but it could cover from one of (1) cartridge, (2) Cyclone (bag or centrifugal separators), (3) electricity, (4) air power or gasoline.

Points to Consider when Using the Industrial Vacuum Cleaner:

1. Vacuum pressure - Refers to the stable flow in water lift, supposed to be static in nature.

2. Airflow - Something to do with the industrial vacuum motor device to produce the air stream flow velocity.

3. Filtration capabilities

Types of Industrial Vacuum Cleaners:

1. The Canister cleaner - Cleaner on wheels, housed the filtering systems and the motor suctions pulled by the user but each filter and suctions functions are in each respective separate compartments.

2. Backpack Vacuum Cleaner - Allows a great degree of mobility due to its being carried like a knapsack at the back. This cleaner provides an advantage penetrating thru difficult areas to reach out.

3. Rider Sweepers - The type that the user rides on. Provides wider mobility, functions at expanded range with larger motor capabilities.

4. Truck Vacuum - Mounted on a truck, usually used to gather large bulk to be transferred inside the truck's compartment. Works on large scale cleaning, and large area coverage.

5. Central vacuum cleaner – placed in the garage or other separated area has a central laden power, inserting 2 PVC pipes to allow inlets thru the wall and carry air-laden dirt thru the pipes.

6. Walk behind Sweepers - cleaners used in large area interiors, carpeted or tiled floors. These are usually electric, gas, or battery operated.

About The Author
Low Jeremy maintains http://Vacuum-Cleaners.ArticlesForReprint.com. This content is provided by Low Jeremy. It may be used only in its entirety with all links included.

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Friday, December 19, 2008

Water Damaged Carpet, What Can Be Done?

Water damage can come in many varieties, from a spilling a single bucket to a complete basement flooding. How you approach your carpet clean up will also depend on the quality of the water if it is clean water, like rain water, or is it from a sewer backup. Each situation should be evaluated on an individual basis, but here are some general guidelines.

First the obvious try to stop the water at the source to eliminate further damage. Check behind the walls as water may be trapped in the insulation or behind the vapor barrier. Next remove all furniture from the room, lift up the edges of the carpet and remove the uderpadding and discard. Extract as much of the water as possible, try to do this soon as you can, as bacteria and mold can set in quickly. Note – depending on the size and scope of damage it may be worth calling in a professional. After you have extracted as much of the water as possible treat the carpet with a disinfectant. Finally prop up the carpet to let airflow get under the carpet and put fans throughout the room to speed up the drying process.

Unsanitary water has many more health issues and concerns and you must take some precautions. Using rubber gloves and rubber boots is a must. I would recommend calling in a professional technician to handle this type of problem. The damage may not be isolated to just the carpeting it could extend to the drywall, insulation and wood studs. This type of water damage if not handled properly could pose a serious health risk.

About The Author
Randy Heslip is a regular contributor to www.vacuum-reviews-cleaners.com where you can find more information to help you choose the right vacuum for your cleaning needs. Article may be reproduced if resource box is left intact.

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Tuesday, April 22, 2008

Central Vacuum Cleaners - The Easiest Way To Keep Your Whole House Cleaner

One of the biggest challenges anyone with a home faces is the constant lugging the cleaning supplies and vacuum cleaner around the house. This is especially true with a 2 story home. The answer however is found in quality central vacuum cleaner systems.

A central vacuum cleaner typically has a much larger motor and suction capability and larger holding capacity. These units are installed outside or in a non obtrusive area inside your home with hose attachment points installed in various places of your home. So when you want to vacuum the upstairs bedrooms, it's a simple matter to go to the vacuum connection point, attach the hose and you're ready to go. These are also not just vacuum however. Most central vacuum cleaning systems feature powered tools that clean deeply and quickly.

The question then comes up " what is the best central vacuum system" available? The answer, as with most everything is that it depends. Central vacuum systems are available in many designs. Here are a few things to consider

1. Is room to install the unit an issue? Then a compact sized footprint is important to consider.

2. Do you want to do more than just vacuum the carpet and flooring? How about cleaning and vacuuming your mattresses? It can help keep dust under control, a major trigger for allergy and asthma sufferers. If cleaning the dust from curtains, shutters and even lampshades is important, be sure to check out the full line of attachments available.

3. Next is the type of vacuum desires. Central vacuums now are available in a variety of designs including cyclonic units, filtered and bag types.

4. Installation, although not difficult may be an issue with homes already built. You would want a unit with parts designed for quick and easy installation in your home.

So although a central vacuum cleaner may be more effort to get installed and up and running, the benefits cannot be ignored. Remember central vacuum cleaning systems can clean a lot more than the carpet, are easier and more convenient to use, are much quieter to operate and do a good job for those with allergies.

We have several interesting articles on tips and suggestions about selecting a central vacuum system, The benefits of convienience, speed and vacuuming quality are just some of the many benefits of a central vacuum cleaner system. These units come in a wide variety of types with one to fit every size and budget.

About The Author

Abigail Franks writes on a variety of subjects which include family, travel, health, and education. For More information on Vacuum Cleaners visit the site at http://www.best-vacuumcleaner.com/central-vacuum-cleaners.html

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Saturday, April 19, 2008

The Vacuum Cleaner – An Essential Home Appliance

A vacuum cleaner is an essential piece of equipment. It would be very difficult to cope without one. People prefer domestic vacuum cleaners for carpeted floors in their homes.

The vacuum cleaner is an ingenious device. It has an air pump that creates a partial vacuum to suck up dust and dirt. It collects the dirt by a filtering system or a cyclone for later disposal.

Types of Vacuum Cleaners:

On the basis of their configurations, there are various types of vacuum cleaners. The following are some well-known vacuum cleaners.

Bagless Vacuum: A bagless vacuum, as the name suggests, doesn't have a bag. It collects the dust in a compartment which is easily emptied. This saves people from the headache of dealing with messy vacuum cleaner bags.

Upright Vacuum Cleaner: An upright vacuum has the pump mounted directly above the suction intake, with the bag mounted on the handle that rises to about waist height. The upright vacuum designs usually employ mechanical beaters, often rotating brushes, to help unsettle dust to be vacuumed up. A belt attached to the vacuum motor drives these beaters.

Canister Vacuum Cleaner: A canister vacuum has the motor and bag in a separate canister (cylinder) unit (usually mounted on wheels) connected to the vacuum head by a flexible hose. Although upright units have been tested as more effective (mainly because of the beaters), the lighter, more maneuverable heads of canister models are popular. Some canister vacuums in the market have power heads that contain the same sort of mechanical beaters as in upright units, although such beaters are driven by a separate electric motor.

Backpack Vacuum: A Backpack vacuum is a major tool for commercial cleaning. It allows the user to move rapidly about a large area. It's essentially a canister vacuum cleaner, except that straps are used to carry the canister unit on the user's back.

Built-in or central vacuum cleaner: A built-in vacuum or central vacuum cleaner has the suction motor and bag based in a central location in the building, and provides vacuum inlets at strategic places throughout the building. Only the hose and pickup head need to be carried from room to room; and the hose is commonly 8 m (25 ft) long, allowing a large range of movement without changing vacuum inlets. A plastic piping connects the vacuum outlets to the central unit. The vacuum head may either be un-powered or have beaters operated by an electric motor or air-driven motor. The dirt bag in a central vacuum system is usually so large that emptying or changing needs to be done less often, perhaps once per year.

Robotic vacuum cleaner: A robotic vacuum moves around the room, cleaning automatically. A battery powers a robotic vacuum.

Small hand-held vacuum cleaner: A small hand-held vacuum is either battery-operated or electric. It is popular for cleaning up smaller spills.

Wet vacs or wet/dry vacuums: Wet vacs or wet/dry vacuums can be used to clean up liquid spills.

Vacuums are very beneficial tools against dust particles. They are particularly helpful for people suffering from various allergies due to dirt. Vacuum buyers should go through some reviews before buying, to ensure they choose a vacuum that will best suit their needs.

About The Author
Paul MacIver writes articles on Home Appliances. Visit http://www.complete-vacuum-cleaners.info or http://www.vacuums-online.info for further detailed info on vacuums, reviews, and the latest models available. You may freely reprint this article as long as nothing is changed, bio is included with all links intact.

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Saturday, January 12, 2008

Washing Window Tricks

Have you ever wondered how those professional window washers move so fast with the squeegee, and how the windows turn out perfect? Well, there really are some tricks to it that are simple to learn, and once you do, dare I say it, you may even enjoy washing windows? It is possible!

The first trick is to invest in a good squeegee. They aren't very expensive and they are worth every cent! Those $1.99 ones just will not do. A professional squeegee has a very soft, rubber blade with no imperfections in it. You can also get extra rubber blades and simply replace the used one when it wears out. There are probably many sources to get one, but a source I like is The Clean Team. http://www.TheCleanTeam.com a basic, professional squeegee from them runs $9.95.

Secondly, do your windows on a cool, or cloudy day. If you HAVE to do it in the sun, do it in the morning. What you want to avoid here is heat. Heat works against you.

Get a bucket of lukewarm water (not hot), and add 2-3 tablespoons of plain ammonia. Use a sponge that has a white scrubber on the other side (don't use the green ones, they are too course). Wet your window with the sponge side, then flip to the white scrub pad side, and scrub the window. You'll be able to "feel" when it's clean. You'll feel rough patches, etc when it's still not clean. This is a step most people fail at, if the window simply isn't clean, it's going to look cloudy when done. Scrub well.

You'll also need lots of clean, white cotton rags/towels/cleaning cloths. Diapers work great here. Dry by hand a 1 inch strip at the top of the window. The trick for no streaks with the squeegee, is placing the dry rubber blade on a dry window.

Take the squeegee now and place it at the top of the window in that 1 inch dry strip. Pull down smoothly. Dry your squeegee blade with between each sweep. Finish window, if need be do one last sweep left to right at the bottom of the window.

Take a dry, clean cloth and run with your finger down each window side and across the bottom to clean and dry the edges. They should look perfect! And you'll feel great having clean windows.

About The Author
By Valerie Garner-Get a series of no cost traffic builders that work to get traffic to your website, plus a few ideas for earning income too. Many unique resources you'll love! Mailto: Moredetails@quicktell.com
Valerie is a writer who strives to engage her readers. She writes on a wide variety of topics.

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Saturday, September 08, 2007

How to Clean and Care for Leather Furniture


Cleaning Leather

New leather hides are supple yet firm, stuffed with oils and moderately acidic. The goal in caring for leather is to keep it that way, even through years of use.

According to most leather experts, the best way to accomplish that is to treat it similar to our skin: keep it clean and moisturize it.

Leather should be cleaned regularly by working up a lather with a mild soap and as little water as possible. The best soap will be non-alkaline, with a low pH. Some better cleaners contain glycerine, an ingredient which attracts moisture from the air and helps keep the leather softer.

When cleaning, should work up a lather with a sponge and rinse often. They should change the water often to avoid putting dirt back into the leather.

Use a soft toothbrush to reach into stitching, tooling and other crevices. Strong cleaners and detergents should not be used on leather, except to spot-clean bad stains before going over the entire leather surface using your mild leather cleaner.

After the leather is clean, you should wipe away all soap with a clean, damp sponge, especially in and around small crevices and stitching. Allow the leather to dry naturally, never in direct sunlight.

Conditioning Leather after the leather is clean and dry

Leather should be moisturized to replenish any oils which were lost over time or removed during the cleaning process. The leather should also be conditioned between regular cleaning, depending upon the building’s interior climate and the degree of wear the surface receives.

In general, leather conditioning products are best when they are light, spread easily, absorb into the surface, will not rub off on clothing, will not permanently darken the leather’s color and are similar to the oils used by curriers to manufacture the leather.

To condition leather, you should carefully spread a thin coating of the conditioning product over the entire surface. Use a clean, dry sponge, and not the same sponges that were just used for cleaning and removing dirt and soap.

Again, the leather should be allowed to dry naturally. If time permits, it may be lightly buffed afterwards to a nice matte finish.

Some problems:

Dirt and moisture create an ideal breeding ground for bacteria and mold that eat away at the stitching that holds a leather surface together

About The Author
Rodel Garcia is a housekeeper @ BC Children's and Women's Hospital. Webmaster and owner of this website: Carpet Cleaning Tips. For more tips on carpet, carpet cleaning and house cleaning please visit my blog: Carpet Cleaning and House Cleaning Tips.
carpet-cleaning-tips.com

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Tuesday, March 06, 2007

Builder’s Dust – Removing It


Have you ever had renovations or alterations done to your property? Then you are fully aware of the amount of fine dust that is generated and manages to get absolutely everywhere even in places far removed from the actual working area. You then spend hours, days and possibly weeks attempting to remove this dust. Is there a much faster route to dust removal?

There most certainly is and it means following two or three rules if you wish to be successful.

· Never attempt to sweep up the dust and debris. If there are large pieces of masonry, plaster and other building materials then you have no option but to sweep this up for its removal. When doing so ensure that as much air flow through is generated by opening all available windows and doors. Do not attempt to carry out the final clean for several hours after doing this. Allow all the dust to settle before attempting this procedure. Sweeping simply throws huge amounts of dust into the air which will then be gradually deposited on every available surface from ceiling to floor.

· Always vacuum the dust from all surfaces such as sills and skirting, around window frames and door frames using the small attachments that are supplied with the vacuum. Upright vacuums unless they come with a long length of hose attachment are not ideal for this as it is likely there will be some use of step ladders to reach and vacuum the higher points in the rooms.

· Having vacuumed thoroughly all surfaces including the vertical ones where dust is likely to gather these surfaces should then be wiped down with a damp cloth. If marks and stains have appeared then it is advisable to carry out this procedure using a universal cleaner.

· With regard to the flooring, carpets should be thoroughly vacuumed, but if it is hard flooring then after vacuuming a scrubber drier should be used. Simply mopping alone will not remove the dust. Mopping will only wet the dust and spread it around so that it dries as ‘muddy’ streaks.

· If floor boarding is in place then after vacuuming carpet should be laid as soon as possible because every time the boards are walked on dust will rise out of the gaps in the boarding and settle on all the surfaces once again.

· If a scrubber drier is not available then use a mop with a large amount of water and wet vac the water up rather than mop it up. This may require two treatments to be completely successful.

If you follow these simple guidelines then your property should be free of builders dust in record time.

About The Author
David Andrew Smith is the owner of a commercial cleaning services company http://www.wesparkle.co.uk that provides its services throughout the UK.

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