Want a Garden But Not Enough Room or Soil? Then Hydroponics Gardening Could Be For You.

Hydroponics gardening is a great idea for anyone who wants a garden but doesn't have enough land or soil. Hydroponics gardening is, essentially, a way to cultivate plants using a nutrient solution instead of soil. With hydroponics gardening, it's easy to grow lovely flowers and succulent vegetables virtually anywhere you want! It's true that hydroponics gardening needs much less time than an ordinary garden. In fact, you might spend only five minutes a day maintaining you're hydroponics garden.

Once a month the nutrient solution will have to be changed but this will only take a few minutes. Big fruiting vegetables like peppers and tomatoes may not be able to thrive but most other vegetables and flowers will do great.

Tips for the newbie to hydroponics gardening.

While hydroponics gardening can be a little confusing sometimes when starting out, you'll soon get the jest of it. The same as you need gardening supplies for a ordinary garden, you'll need hydroponics supplies for your hydroponics garden. The most popular system is the passive system. This is where the plants sit directly in the nutrient solution. All passive air systems use an aquarium air bubbler otherwise the solution can become deoxygenated and could rot the plants. If you can find the right system for you, hydroponics gardening could produce you with all the flowers and vegetables you could possibly want.

For more information go to: http://www.gardeningsupply.info/.

About The Author
Jan Money is a freelance writer from Poole, Dorset, England. Jan has been writing gardening articles since 2005.
For all your gardening needs and information: http://www.gardeningsupply.info/

Building a Compost Bin

Compost can act as a great fertilizer, enriching the soil with organic materials rather than making use of chemicals that can do more harm than good if used improperly. Composting is a great way to save money as well. Using compost requires that you thoroughly mix it into the soil, reducing compaction and providing oxygenation to the soil. Compost can help plants stay healthier, and that contributes to their ability to repel diseases and survive insect attacks. A healthy landscape can be achieved with a little help from composting.

It is important to note that composting does require a little extra work. The pile needs to be turned, and you need to make sure that you have adequate break down of the items in your compost pile. You need to be discriminating in what you put in your compost: it should only be items that will break down naturally. Plant matter (including pulled weeds) and some foods are excellent in compost and will add to the health of your soil, and thus to your landscape over all. There is no reason, however, that your compost pile needs to be a true pile. A bin can help you better contain your compost and keep it from being spread across your yard in a smelly mess by animals or a really fierce storm.

The first thing you need to do before you build a compost bin is decide what your needs are. Many people actually use a three-bin system. The bins may be connected, or they may be individually lined up. Some people use the bins for different types of compost (regular compost, slow compost like woody plants, and leaves collected in the fall). Others like to have a three-bin system for the turning purposes. Move the compost from one bin into the next, allowing it to turn. Then you can start a pile in the newly vacated bin. By the time the compost makes it into the third bin, it is ready for use. Others find that a single bin is sufficient for their needs, and just go out to stir it around occasionally.

Next you need to determine what materials you will use to build your bin. It is important to note that some exposure to the elements is necessary for more effective and quicker composting. Chicken wire is not particularly good for compost bins as it can stretch out of shape very easily and does not wear well. Materials like 16-guage plastic-coated wire mesh and hardware cloth are better choices, as is hog wire. Wood makes an interesting choice, but it is important to note that it will eventually compost itself and will need to be replaced. Do not used pressure-treated wood, as it has toxic levels of copper and chromium, and there is evidence that arsenic can leach into your compost. Other materials that are acceptable for building compost bins are spoiled hay bales, old cinder blocks or bricks, wooden pallets, snow fencing, and a discarded rabbit hutch. The hutch is desirable because there is very little that needs to be done to make it ready.

One of the easiest and cheapest ways to build a compost bin is to construct it from wooden pallets. Most warehouses, grocery, and hardware stores are more than happy to give these away for free, or for very cheap, as it saves them the trouble of having to discard them. You can use plastic ties to hold four of them together in a box formation. Adding another bin to create a system is easy: just attach three more pallets using one side of the already made bin to complete another box. Be warned: after about two years you will need a new bin, as this bin will be composting itself.

A cinder block or brick bin is also rather easy and cheap to build. If you visit a demolition or construction site, you are bound to find the materials you need readily available. Simply ask for permission to take them. As with the pallets, if you take them away, it saves the company from having to pay for the costs associated with disposing of them. Simply create a square enclosure by stacking the blocks or bricks on top of each other. Make sure you leave space between the blocks for ventilation.

About The Author
Janeth Duque of Geeks On Steroids. Janeth is well-known in the world of web design and search engine optimization.
Web Site: Geeks on Steroids
View their website at: http://www.geeksonsteroids.com
janeth@geeksonsteroids.com

Tropical plants blossoming in your home

The easiest plants to grow are tropical plants. You don't even require a greenhouse to grow them. Most of the tropical plants grow very well in a typical home environment.

However, you have to provide a consistently warm temperature to help tropical plants grow well. Of course you don't have to do anything special about it. They need the temperature that you need. Since the average home temperature is 73-76 degrees, the temperatures for growing tropical plants is just about right. Moreover, tropical plants need slightly higher humidity, which is again so easy to provide in an average home.

Notwithstanding, you will need to pay special attention to see that your tropical plants get enough sunlight. Again, you don't have to put them under direct sunlight or keep shifting them from place to place chasing the sunlight. All they need is light, because tropical plants don't grow well in dark. So, avoid placing them in dark corners of your house. It's a good idea to place them in a sunroom also called Florida room, if you have one. That will help them grow to their fullest glory.

It is advisable to do some extensive research while buying the tropical plants for your home. There are many bookstores flooded with books providing extensive information and tips on how to grow tropical plants at home. You may also use the online resources that can prove very fruitful while gathering information. These may provide you with many useful tips on growing tropical plants fruitfully. So, be ready with your homework and research to find the most suitable tropical plants for your home.

Once you've done your research and have an idea of what tropical plants you want to grow in your home and which ones are likely to do well, it's time to go shopping. Your local nurseries and even florists are excellent places to shop for tropical plants to grow in your home. The staff in these nurseries and florist shops are also founts of information and can give you invaluable information on growing tropical plants in your home.

There are many online nurseries and plant websites where you can gather information along with ordering your tropical plants. The major setback of ordering the plants online are that they might get damaged while shipping. Also tropical plants you are going to buy online may be diseased. So if you are ready to buy plants online then make sure what are their return polices and terms. Since anything can happen to plants so you should be prepared with your action plan and know the policies of the company.

About The Author
Dio Tropica is the proprietor of A Real Tropical which is a premier source for Tropical information. For questions and comments, go to: http://www.arealtropical.com

Weed Burners What Are They And How To Use Them

One of the main stay problems that the average gardener faces are the endless on-slaught of weeds. Many of these unwanted plants are rather easy to rid yourself of while others can be as persistant as the day is long. In either case your looking at a possible hard days' labor or the use of a chemical herbicide which may hurt you or the environment. In this article we are going to dissuss an alternative to hand pulling or chemicals. Fire!

What is it..?

A weedburner is a very effective tool at destroying unwanted plant foliage. Weedburners are devices that consist of a propane fuel tank, a fuel hose, a metal wand with a burner head and a control valve for controlling the gas. There are hand held varieties which are very similar in their function, but these use disposable propane tank that screw onto the burner wand. The hand held burners are much less powerful and far more expensive to use, so otherwise not recommend for most uses.

Purchasing

Weedburners are readily available on the internet and many hardware-garden stores. The majority of weedburners are very similar in design and function. It's most important that you feel comfortable with the burner and it's controls. The one real variance that weedburns do have is their BTU rating. The BTU rating is a measure of how much heat is produced by the burner. The higher the BTU rating, the higher the amount of heat available to kill plant foliage. If your weedburner does not come with a striker or some other type of igniter, then you may need to purchase one. A welders' torch striker will work just fine. Before you make your purchase of a weedburner for the first time, you should take a moment to become familiar with your local laws regarding the ownership and use of the device. Some localities disallow the use of weedburners at certain times of the year, while others disallow them out right. Many localities demand that a fire extinguisher be present while the weedb!

Pre-fire preparation

Before you light your weedburner for the first time, make sure all connections are tight and sealed. It is also highly recommend that you have a propane tank with a safety release valve. All new tanks have this type of valve. With out this type of valve, if the tank were to tip over while in use, liquid propane would flow through the fuel line. This would cause a very dangerous situation. To ease the use of the burner, we would recommend the use of a dolly or a garden wagon to tote around your propane tank. Before you use the weedburner, have a fire extinguisher, garden hose , bucket of water or some other method of extinguishing a fire ready and waiting.

Where do we use it?

A weedburner is best suited for areas such as gravel walks or drives, sidewalks or patio cracks, fence lines or other open areas. Survey the area before using the weedburner and remove all flammable material as much as possible. Dry leaves and dry grass are generally the biggest flame risk, so remove as much of this debris before use.

How do we use it?

The use is rather straight forward. The larger the flame, the larger the killing area. The goal is not to burn the plant foliage, but to sightly cook it. When the flame initially makes contact with the foliage, you may see steam rise from the plant. The plant may also wilt or change color. This is the tell tale signs that the foliage is destroyed. You can check the progress of the over all kill by pressing some foliage between you thumb and fore finger. This should leave an impression and will be darker than the rest of the leaf.

Final Thoughts

Weedburners are a good alternative to chemical herbicides, but the user must understand that weedburners are used as a weed management tool. It may take several uses to fully kill off perennial weeds. Care should always be taken when using a burner not to set weeds on fire or to scorch valuable plants. We have had some positive results using weedburners to sterilize soil and rid infested areas of weed seeds. By no means is this a scientific study, but an observation by us and some of our clients. Weedburners also have other uses beyond weed control. Many potters who fire their pottery Raku style use these burners to heat their homemade kilns and weedburners are also good alternative to salt on frozen sidewalks.

About The Author
Timothy Waggoner is the owner and operator of the Yard Works Gardening Co of Bellingham Washington. More articles by timothy can be found at: http://resources.ywgc.com

Hydroponics Gardening – How to Grow Flowers and Vegetables with Minimal Time and Effort

Did you know that you can still grow your own beautiful flowers and vegetables, without having to spend many hours every week looking after your garden?

One of the biggest problems many gardeners face is never having enough time to maintain their garden. There's always weeds to remove, insects and other pests to take care of, and steps to take to prevent plants becoming diseased. Even watering the garden each day can be very time consuming, unless there's an automatic sprinkler system in place.

If you want a garden but only have limited time to look after it, hydroponics is a great option. Hydroponics gardening has many time-saving advantages over conventional gardening methods.

Some of these advantages are:

1. No weeding required.

With hydroponics gardening, the plants are grown in a solution of nutrients dissolved in water instead of soil. You don't have to worry about weeds sprouting amongst your plants, because soil isn't used.

2. Fewer problems with pests and diseases.

When growing hydroponically, you have less of the typical problems with pests such as slugs, snails and caterpillars attacking your plants.

Although the nutrient solution of your hydroponic garden will have to be changed regularly, this only takes a fraction of the time compared to conventional gardening maintenance - eg. greenhouse gardening, where soil has to be replaced between crops to prevent disease.

3. You don't need to spend time watering your plants.

Plants grown in a hydroponic garden have an unlimited supply of water. You never need to be concerned that your plants are getting too much or too little water.

4. Say goodbye to digging your garden.

Preparation of a conventional garden involves loosening the soil to add oxygen for the plant's roots to extract. Once again, as soil isn't used with hydroponics, this means one less time consuming job for you to do.

Plants grown hydroponically extract oxygen from the nutrient solution via their roots. The oxygen can quite quickly be used up, so it's important that it's replaced. The way it's replaced depends on which system is used. The most common hydroponic system is the passive system, which uses an aquarium bubbler to put oxygen back into the solution.

Plants can be grown rapidly without all the concerns of regular gardening. Although a hydroponics system can take some time to set up, you'll find it's well worth the effort.

For more information on hydroponics and the advantages over regular gardening go to http://www.about-hydroponics.info/information-on-hydroponics.html

About The Author
Stephen Provis has an interest in plants and home gardening, and is owner of http://www.ultimate-hydroponics.info/hydroponic-grow-systems.htm.

Bonsai Tree Care

Bonsai was first discovered over one thousand years ago in China although it was not known as "bonsai" back then, instead it was known as "punsai".

As the world progressed and Japan started to adopt many of China's cultures, bonsai was introduced to the Japanese, bonsai then spread through all of Asia.

Growing bonsai trees has become a very popular activity all around the world, it is a little different from other plants and trees that tend to appear everywhere and that is what makes them such fun.

Bonsai quickly spread throughout the world when it was discovered and became popular with many different cultures but the thing that was most interesting about bonsai was not how to grow it but instead how to care for it and form it.

Bonsai trees can be formed into different shapes, different looks, different feels and it can be "manipulated" to create the effect that the grower wants, however, this is something that most people do not know how to do.

Bonsai tree care is something that you need to learn in order to grow your own beautiful trees, it is easy to do when you have the right knowledge.

One of the most important aspects of growing and caring for bonsai is that you know what outcome you would like before you even start, this will save you time and effort.

Bonsai tree care does not have to be something that is a chore or something that you have to "waste" time learning, it can be a fun and enjoyable experience, even if you fail.

When bonsai was discovered by the rest of the world, it quickly became a very popular subject with exhibitions appearing all over the world, the demand for bonsai trees became extremely high and it started a frenzy of people urgently trying to grow the trees.

The one thing that people wanted to desperately know was how to form the shapes and looks that bonsai experts did, now it is possible.

About The Author
Niall Mehaffey is a bonsai enthusiast and runs a website that will show you exactly how you can grow stunningly beautiful bonsai trees, just like the experts do, check it out at http://www.bonsaitreecareinfo.com.

Aspen Trees And Their Uses

Aspen trees are considered to be one of the largest organisms in the world and yet maintain the identity of being slender and delicate. Appreciating the splendor of aspen can happen almost anywhere due to its ability to share its natural beauty in many forms.

When one thinks of aspen they generally imagine forest groves in the Rocky or Appalachian Mountains, but in reality aspen trees grow all over the globe. They can be found in Europe, Asia and Japan. Aspen trees survive only within specific environments; cool regions with cool summers and cold winters. That is why they are only found within 5,000 feet-12,000 feet above sea level. On rare occasions they have been seen as low as 1,500 feet but rarely survive due to the mild winters. Only grown in the Northern Hemisphere, their northern limits are determined by its intolerance to permafrost and they can extend south only at the high altitudes.

In western North America, Quaking Aspens grow only in portions of the Rocky Mountain Range (which extends from Canada to Mexico). At maturity, this medium-size deciduous tree usually reaches heights of 66 feet-82 feet with a trunk size of 6 inches-24 inches. The leaves are generally round (1 inch-1½ inches in diameter) and 1 inch-2 inches long with small irregular rounded teeth. They are connected with strong flattened stems, which enable the leaves to twist and flutter in the slightest breezes originating the meaning of its name.

To propagate, aspen trees have two options; they can generate from seeds or clone from root suckers. The seeds are released in capsules that are attached to cottony fluff produced by mature trees in the spring. Once the seed takes root and produces a tree the roots stretches out to create a new sapling, creating a colony. Every sapling has the same genetic code as the original seed so the whole colony ends up being clone trees. New stems in the colony may appear 9 feet-12 feet from the parent tree. Each tree only lives for 40-150 years above ground, but the root system of the colony is long-lived, in some cases for many thousands of years, sending up new trees as the older trees die off above the ground. One such colony in Utah is claimed to be 80,000 years old, making it possibly the oldest living colony in the world. Some aspen colonies become very large with time, spreading about three feet per year, eventually covering many hectares. They are able to survive intense forest fires as the roots are far below the heat of the fire, with new sprouts' growing after the fire is out.

The wood of the aspen is white, and soft, but fairly strong, and has very low flammability. It has a number of uses, notably for making matches, where its low flammability makes it safer to use and easy to blow out compared to other woods. Shredded aspen wood is also a popular animal bedding, as it lack the phenols (natural chemicals) associated with pine and juniper, which are thought to cause respiratory ailments in some animals. Once a tree dies it can also be kiln dried and used in making furniture. Real aspen rustic log furniture adds a great deal of character to many American households as it adds environmentally friendly components to everyday life. Aspen is the preferred log of many craftsmen as each piece has unique character, creates a rustic style and it has an outstanding resilience to bug infestation.

About The Author
Jessica Stevenson grew up in Colorado and currently lives in the beautiful mountains of Utah. She attended Brigham Young University where she received her Bachelors degree. Jessica expanded her education by studying abroad in the Middle East and interning in Washington DC for 18 months. Currently she is employed where she oversees the production of aspen log and reclaimed timber furniture.

Container Gardening

One of the most effective ways to save money in your landscape is to engage in the practice of container gardening. Container gardening is making use of different containers to hold your plants. These work for flowers, herbs, and even for vegetables. Container garden requires less maintenance than more conventional flowerbeds and gardens because there is less amendment to the soil and because there are fewer weed problems. Additionally, the costs associated with preparing an area for planting can be avoided when one uses carefully considered containers and planters for their landscaping.

One of the great things about container gardening is the wide variety of items that can be used as containers. Many of the items can be found around the house or even purchased from thrift stores. Old washtubs, and even filing cabinets laid on their sides and removed of their drawers (which can also be used as containers) make great containers. You can even cut the tops off of milk cartons and use the bottom sections as planters. These everyday items can be attractively decorated to look nice.

In addition to converting things like coffee cans and old shoes into fun and cute flower and herb holders, there are plenty of more traditional planters and containers that can be incorporated into an attractive landscape design. Clay pots and large urns make attractive holders, and the urns can even be used to hold vegetables. Additionally, container gardening is not limited to the ground. Hanging baskets bought at the store make excellent additions to any landscape. Plus, they can be hanged from the house, the porch, and even from tree branches and along fences. These baskets create little bursts of color no matter where they are. Window boxes are also attractive variations on container gardening and can add a great deal to the look of a home.

Containers make great accents as well as being practical and money saving. They can be just as beautiful to look at as the rest of the landscape design elements. Indeed, container gardening is a great way to enjoy the benefits of having a garden without as much backbreaking labor. Weeds cannot work their way into the containers, and if you have the right depth of container it is possible to have very healthy plants with strong roots, making them resistant to disease and pests. Additionally, flowers in containers are well protected from cutworms and from rodents who may burrow into the root system. Containers are excellent sources of protection for many plants.

In order to ensure that your container-based landscape is a success, it is important that you make sure that your plants do not need an extensive root system. Most flowers, even perennials, are fine in most containers. Even many vegetables are fine in coffee tins and washtubs. Corn can easily be planted in the filing cabinet lying down, and most drawers are plenty deep for tomatoes. Lettuce is a vegetable with a fairly shallow root system, and peppers have requirements that are very easy to meet with containers. Make sure, before planting, that your container is adequate for the needs of your plants. Herbs, of course, can thrive in just about any size of container, and many of them can even be grown inside the house (near a sunny window, of course).

Fill the containers with potting soil or garden soil. These soils are rich in nutrients and can provide your plants with the food they need. It is even possible to mix in a little organic compost for added nutrition. You will need to water your plants occasionally, but because your plants are enclosed in the container, there is no need to water them as often as plants in the ground. This is because the container will help retain moisture, and there is no drainage. Rather, you need to be careful not to over water your container garden.

Making use of a container garden is a great way to save time and money in your landscaping. It is also a creative way to display your plants and even to grow your food. And, if you have a small amount of space, container gardening can allow you to have a variety of plants that you might not otherwise have room for.

About The Author
Janeth Duque of Geeks On Steroids. Janeth is well-known in the world of web design and search engine optimization.
Web Site: Geeks on Steroids
View their website at: http://www.geeksonsteroids.com
janeth@geeksonsteroids.com

Building a Raised Garden Bed

You can save money by building your own raised garden bed. These can be used for flowers and even for vegetables. They are gaining in popularity because they are easy and inexpensive to build, making them practical parts of the landscape. Additionally, they are fairy easy to plant and maintain. They are even relatively easy to weed. In addition to being convenient and practical in maintenance, they also drain sooner as well as warm up faster. This means that you can plant earlier in the season, resulting in the possibility of multiple harvests if you use your raised gardens for vegetables. You can make your garden a temporary bed or a permanent bed, and reap the benefits of a simple way to enjoy your landscape more and even dress it up a little bit.

The first thing you need to do is make sure that you have all of the necessary tools and materials. You can make your beds out of rocks, concrete blocks, bricks, naturally rot-resistant wood (cypress is very slow to decompose), or wood treated with a safe preservative. It is important to make sure that treated wood does not have anything harmful in it that could leach into the soil and thus be absorbed by the plants. This is especially important if you plan to eat whatever you are growing in your raised bed. Other things that you will need include optional wood preservative (like sealant) or sheet plastic, spading fork, shovel, iron rake, hammer and nails, measuring tape, compost, and topsoil. All of things are necessary for creating a successful raised garden bed.

When making a permanent garden bed, you should make sure to use more permanent materials. If you plan to use your bed for flowers as a prominent part of your landscape, bricks make very nice beds, as they are attractive and often complement most traditional landscape designs and plants. The bed can be as long as you would like it to be, but it should be at least one foot deep and no more than four feet wide. Wider beds can make it difficult to reach the middle of the bed to take care of things like weeding and fertilizing. If you have the bed against a house or fence, wide beds make it difficult to reach the backside of the bed as well.

Temporary beds, unlike permanent beds, allow you to change the design every year. If you like the idea of being able to make small changes to your landscape each growing season, then temporary beds can help you achieve this. Additionally, they are easier and less expensive to remove if you decide that you would like to take them out. Wood is best for these types of beds, as the wood can easily be taken apart. Choosing attractive woods can add to the look of your landscape design. You can also decorate the wood with non-toxic paint if you would like to have a little different look. As with permanent beds, make sure that you build them at least with a foot of depth and not very wide.

When planting your beds, whether permanent or temporary, you should begin by preparing the bed. Remove rocks, sticks, and debris from the beds and make sure that they are prepared for plantings. Be sure to allow for drainage. You can build your bed on a patio or on soil, but either way you should ensure that there are adequate pathways for excess moisture to escape. When using brick or concrete blocks, they can be stacked in a staggered fashion to allow water out of the bed. When building on top of soil, loosen the bottom soil with a shovel or spading fork. The bed should be filled from bottom to top with a compost and topsoil mixture. After this is done, rake the top of the bed so that it is smooth.

Once the bed is prepared, you can plant flowers, herbs, or vegetables inside the bed. Tall plants should be put in against a fence or wall, or on the bed's northern side. Make sure that you take proper care of your plants in your bed, and remember that raised beds can dry out faster. They may need a little more water. Avoid stepping on the bed as much as possible to prevent soil compaction, and follow up your planting with a proper application of mulch.

About The Author
Janeth Duque of Geeks On Steroids. Janeth is well-known in the world of web design and search engine optimization.
Web Site: Geeks on Steroids
View their website at: http://www.geeksonsteroids.com
janeth@geeksonsteroids.com

Pharm Organic Deer Repellent Safe and Effective

Always Green Nursery's Deer Pharm Organic Repellant solves one of the most lingering issues for serious gardeners in all areas of the country. How does one get rid of those annoying ruminants eating everything green that appears in the garden without destroying the plants which make up the food crop, rendering the food unfit for human consumption due to the smell or taste of the repellent, or spending all one's gardening time applying the repellent?

Deer are a year-round problem in rural area gardens. In the spring, they love to visit the new shoots of the vegetable garden or the tips of ornamental shrubbery and strip away the leaves. The hoof prints in the planted but unsprouted areas of the garden can undo in one evening what has taken hours of planting to accomplish. During the summer, the produce from the vegetable garden is mature and they have been known to mow down a row of spinach, chard or lettuce during one evening's feeding frenzy.

Fall brings new problems. As melons and vines ripen, so does the audacity of the nighttime visits. The animals are rarely content with picking and eating only one item. They have been known to move down a row of ripe melons taking a bite of one here, stepping on another there, and gnawing through a vine in yet another area. One or two animals in a garden can literally destroy a whole season's produce in a single night.

And then there is the winter season. One would think that the dear would stay away because the garden is down to dead stalks, but no—they love dried corn stalks and may even move into lawn or shrubbery in order to forage for food. They can do serious damage to the trunks of fruit trees as they rub antlers against the wood.

Deer Pharm Organic Repellant is 100 percent safe for your children, animals and pets. Applied correctly, it's undetectable to human olfactory organs after 10-12 hours, yet the deer hate it. During the early season, you can apply Deer Pharm frequently, and space out the applications as the season progresses. The product is 100% natural and contains 100% pure organic ingredients.

About The Author
Jonathan Coffman is the owner of Always Green Nursery located in Columbia, MO. They are a premium grower of perennial plants to retail and wholesale customers across the country. You can buy plants, seeds, gardening supplies and more from http://www.alwaysgreenursery.com/buy-perennials.

Spring Is Around The Corner - How is your Garden?

Spring is in my opinion the most wonderful time of year for the gardener. You can shake of that winter weariness and get ready for a new gardening season.

The most difficult part of spring gardening is trying to manage your impatience. Don't start digging around too early. The soil must be dry enough to have it fall apart when you pick it up. When it still sticks together like glue that's definitely not the case.

Early spring is the best time of year to change (parts of) your garden design. You can transplant existing shrubs and perennial plants before they begin to leaf out. This also is the time to prune your trees and shrubs. Cut back the remaining dead foliage from last season and remove dead, damaged or diseased branches of trees and shrubs.

And then flowers! That's really what spring is about isn't it! There are many that are suitable for cool spring weather. Think of sweet alyssum, some snapdragons, stock and sweat peas. You can also start some perennials like hostas and daylilies.

Start some Violets, Marigolds, Carnations, Geraniums and Impatiens inside to transplant to your flower beds in early spring. Or if you have some space left in your garden you can set up a "Cold Frame". Ready-made cold frames are available in different sizes. A cold frame "captures" the spring sunlight and warms the soil it surrounds. That way it is ideal to "harden off" houseplants and transplants for your summer garden. You can use the cold frame for direct seeding as well.

If you have unplanted areas in your garden a great spring project is to lay out landscape cloth on that unplanted area. Landscape cloth is an excellent weed barrier. It comes in different weights, heights and fabric choices. This cloth can then also serve as a great map to precisely plant your transplants.

Weeds start to grow very early but still have shallow roots in spring so get them out when you spot them. Getting on top of the weeds now means a lot less work in summer, and I'm sure that digging out weeds in the burning sun in not your favorite pastime.

These two measures will definitely intimidate your perennial weeds to the extent that they will prefer your neighbor's garden over yours.

And most of all enjoy your spring garden, watch it grow and blossom into summer!

About The Author
Anita Johnston is an enthusiast gardener and one of the authors of http://www.gardening-guides.com and http://www.lawnmower-guide.com/.

Chainsaw Manufacturers Have Excellent Safety Records

Chainsaw manufacturers have excellent safety videos available. Always make sure you check safety features such as chain brakes, safety chains, and deadman switches. Chainsaws provide all the convenience of a Chainsaw, even in enclosed areas and near residential buildings. Make sure to service your systems chainsaw will help ensure that your equipment will not let you down.

Correct chain tension proper lubrication and a properly tuned engine. Your new chain if possible, soak the chain in oil to allow oil to penetrate all chain components, the chain tension should be checked and adjusted if needed before every use.

Before using your chainsaw each time you need to inspect the fuel system.After every 10 hours of use you need to clean or replace the air filter. Chainsaw two stroke engines a great power-to-weight ratio compared to many four-stroke engine designs.

The air intake filter tends to clog up with sawdust. The fuel filter should be replaced after every 20 hours of use. You'll acquire better chainsaw performance through basic maintenance, carburetor setting, and filing techniques. A vibration dampening system, which makes simple work of the most difficult tasks. These are merely tips to assist you while searching for a Chainsaw.

Chainsaws are easier to use than ever. Your chainsaw converts logs into lumber or timber. Before you use a chainsaw you should undergo extensive training, and only trained people should use a chainsaw, always think safety.

Suitable protective clothing suitable protective clothing should be worn - no matter how small the job.

Chainsaws produce a level of noise that will affect unprotected ears after only 15 minutes of exposure, wear ear muffs or ear plugs to keep as much noise as possible out.

About The Author
Jerry Smith can help you. Find out how thousands of people have been helped with the advice and information. Visit this link for details: http://www.find-chainsaws.com/buy-chainsaw.html.

Landscaping...How Does Your Garden grow

The landscaping of the exterior areas around your house should be as personal in taste as your interior decoration.

A driveway and garden are usually the first impressions a visitor has of your home. They should always be as trim and well cared for as your house itself.

Naturally, landscaping, like most things, depends on individual taste. Some people prefer a wild, natural look in gardens and outdoor areas. Others prefer the clipped hedges, planned walks, planting and ordered flower borders of the stylized English garden.

Before planning your landscape, check the zoning regulations of your community, if you live in the city. This must be the first step, as many zoning laws determine the limitations on the height of trees, shrubs and other foilage, and their placement. Interior and corner lots often differ in these respects.

The cost of landscaping varies with each house, as does the planning. The location of the house on the property, the size, shape and elaborateness of areas planned for trees, shrubs, lawn and flowers are of course the controlling factors. The larger, more intricate garden naturally cost more than a smaller area.

Here are some good basic pointers to remember when planning your landscaping.

Privacy - Shrubs, bushes, a cluster of trees can serve as screens from adjoining properties, walks, roads and create a park like effect at the same time. Clever landscaping of a patio, terrace or swimming pool adds to their usability and attractiveness, also provides perfect privacy.

Integration - A driveway should be fully blended with the foilage to create an attractive first impression of your property. The proportion of trees, grass, shrubs, bushes and flowers should be carefully balanced with concrete, graveled, asphalt or flagstone driveways to dispense with a paved, sidewalk effect.

Shade - A single, large tree may be a joy to look at, but make sure it does not obscure the house or shade it too much. Plant a tree or cluster of trees at the edge of the lawn, so that you get the most benefit from the shade on hot days. Make sure the trees do not overhang swimming pools or sun patios, and obscure the sun. Also bear in mind that trees near a pool mean falling leaves and debris to clean out of the water constantly.

Levels - A garden on flat land can be planted with little regard to change in grade (level). Some land is not totally flat, so do not overlook grading problems in your plans. However, a garden that has more than one level is more interesting and much more effective designs can be achieved. But, naturally, the cost are higher.

Drainage - If you are designing your own garden before calling in a landscaper, remember to settle the drainage problems first, or discuss it with the expert. You don't want puddles, ruined turf or plants, so settle the drainage system in the beginning.

Basic Planting - Once your design is complete, you have two courses you can follow in the planting plan. If your budget allows you to do the whole planting job at once, the sequence should be as follows: plant trees and shrubs first, then sod or seed your lawn. Should it be neccessary to carry your landscaping over a period of years, plant lawn first, add trees, shrubs and flowers later when you can afford it.

Plans - Your garden requires landscape plans, just as the interior of your home. If you have definite ideas about what you want, and the effect you wish to achieve, draw up some rough plans on graph paper. Then you can discuss the project fully with the landscaper. If you are an amateur gardener and wish to do your landscaping yourself, you will not need a set of plans to determine each area of your property.

About The Author
Lisa French is a freelance writer of home decorating articles and webmaster for Decorating-Country-Home.com. Use of article requires an active link to http://www.decorating-country-home.com/landscaping.html.

Ten Simple Steps to Taking Cuttings

There are several different types of cuttings that you can take from plants – the most common are softwood, semi-ripe and hardwood. These refer to how woody and therefore how old the plant stem is.

Softwood cuttings are taken from the youngest part of the stem, and are the easiest and quickest to take root. This makes them ideal for anyone trying this for the first time.

Softwood cuttings are taken in May and June from the new growth of the plant. They root easily – between 4 and 8 weeks – but can wilt and die if they lose too much moisture, so they have to be kept warm and moist. And the best way to do this, if you don't have a propagator, is to put the pot inside a polythene bag.

Some experts recommend using hormone rooting powder to encourage rooting, others say it is not necessary. I have taken cuttings both using rooting powder and without using it and I have had successes and failures with both. So give it a try and see what happens.

The most suitable and easiest plants for taking cuttings include: fuchsias, pelargoniums, hebes, lupins, hydrangeas and chrysanthemums.

So here's how you do it:

1. Cut about half a dozen growing tips from the plant – about 4" using a sharp knife or secateurs and pop straight into a polythene bag to keep the cutting moist

2. Use either special cuttings compost, or make up a half and half mix of multi-purpose compost and vermiculite or sharp sand

3. You can use small 3" pots for individual cuttings, or a larger 5" pot and place up to 5 cuttings around the edge

4. Trim each cutting so that the bottom is just below a leaf joint (node) – make the cut a slanted one if you can

5. Take off all the bottom leaves, leaving just 3-4 at the top, and pinch out the growing tip

6. If you are using hormone rooting powder, dip the bottom end of the cutting in water, then into the powder and shake off any excess

7. Push the cutting into the compost in the pot up to about a third of its length, and water

8. Cover the pot with a clear polythene bag making sure the bag does not press against the leaves, and place on a bright, sunny window ledge or in a greenhouse

9. Check every few days, but they should not need much watering

10. When you see new leaves appearing, you will know that the cutting has rooted – you can then re-pot the new plant into normal potting compost

And because softwood cuttings are so easy to root, it is also possible just to pop the cut stem into a glass of water, take off the bottom leaves, pinch out the growing tip, and within a couple of weeks you will see the roots starting to grow.

And that's all there is to it – your family and friends will be so impressed when you give them plants for free!

About The Author
Fran Barnwell provides step-by-step tips and advice on how to start gardening for beginners. Why not sign up for her free ezine, or order the eBook 'The Ultimate Guide to Gardening for Beginners' at her website: http://www.NewToGardening.com.

Potted Gardens

Potted gardens may be more temporary than in-ground plantings, but they usually reward creative design and a liberal willingness to change. With potted gardens, you can experiment freely with combinations and new plants, especially considering that you can simply redesign these planters next season. It’s not advisable to use garden soil if it’s infertile or drains badly. You can overcome locations of shade and add pizzazz by brightening dark corners with colorful flowers in pots.

You can even extend the growing season by bringing the potted gardens indoors for the winter. You are even able to grow plants that otherwise would not see the light of day in your garden. Limited space can be used more efficiently or even broken up in large areas of landscape with the use of pots. Finally, it’s significant to keep invasive plants under control because they tend to overrun a garden.

It is vital to keep plants neat and clean through regular sprucing. This not only enhances the look of plants, but reduces the avoidance of insects and disease dilemmas. Remove all spent flowers, dead branches and dying leaves. Leaves should be dust-free by washing the plants with temperate water and gentle true soap - avoid detergent because it can create damage to buds and leaves. Cover the pot to stop soap from entering the soil. If tips of leaves become dry and brown, trim them off tidily with sharp clippers.

Humidity can be increased by laying plants on trays which are lined with a variety of pebbles and filled with warm water to about one half inch of the pot base. Keep a pot of water on the stove, if you heat with wood.

Training contains many minor care activities that differentiate the beginner from the experienced indoor plant gardener. For example, pinching is the removal of one inch or less of the stem tip and leaf growth to incite new growth just below the tip and promote lateral branching. Pinching can be a continuous or one-time activity, depending on the desires of the plant owner. Frequent pinching will sustain a plant compressed, but suitably filled-out.

Potted gardens allow you to garden in what would otherwise be impossible locations and add life to any type of setting with colorful plantings. You can set the potted gardens in a window box and attach the pot to a deck railing or window sill. A planter that’s set down on each tread of the entry stairway is another possibility. Suspended gardens in baskets from overhead beams, pergolas and eaves can add an undeniable attraction to your home. In other words, any bit of emptiness in space can be a spot for a potted garden.

This type of gardening is quite enjoyable because it affords the opportunity to rearrange or change pots and the plants in them in a short space of time. You can combine different plants with similar light and moisture requirements, pay careful attention to the tenderness of the plants you choose and water them regularly during the summer months, with that intense heat and humidity.

About The Author
Jena Luthowski writes about http://www.HomeGardenCoupons.com, http://www.homegardencoupons.com/Categories/Animal%20Control.html and http://www.SimplyBestCoupons.com

How and Why To Use Row Covers

Row covers are a matter of choice for gardeners. Some love them. Others hate them. If larger and more earlier yields of veggies is a goal then row covers are an excellent choice.

Row covers come in a wide variety of materials and can be used as tunnels supported by hoops or as floating covers which just lie gently on the growing plants.

The lightweight covers are used for keeping insect pests away from your plants while the heavier ones are used for frost protection in both the spring and fall.

Whether used with hoops or free floating the edges of the covers need to be weighted down to prevent them from blowing away in the wind and to prevent insect pests from getting under the covers. Weigh the edges down with rocks, bricks, or anything handy. A row of soil placed on top of the edges is an excellent and simple method.

Although studies show that most plants do best with hooped covers there are three plants that require hoops. Tomatoes, peppers and squash grow large and fast. These plants do best with hooped covers because the constant rubbing of the cover on the plants can damage the growing points and break the large leaves.

Added benefits of using row covers include:

Earlier and larger yields. Plants produce 1 to 3 weeks earlier than without row covers.

Frost protection of 4 to 7 degrees. Especially in the fall when the soil is much warmer than it is in the spring. Just one layer of row cover gives the added protection of moving the garden by one USDA growing zone.

Pest protection as long as the edges remain weighted down or buried.

Moisture Retention. The soil doesn't dry out as fast under the row covers as the temperature isn't as high as without the cover, and water under the row cover condenses and returns to the plants and soil.

Wind damage. Plants under row covers suffer less from high winds.

For more information on gardening with row covers visit: http://www.apluswriting.net/garden/rowcover.htm

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About The Author
Marilyn Pokorney
Freelance writer of science, nature, animals and the environment.
Also loves crafts, gardening, and reading.
Website: http://www.apluswriting.net
Email: Current address on website

How To Start Your Garden From Seeds The Right Way

Green house gardeners are typically of two minds when it involves planting. One group of gardeners prefers to use seedlings to start their gardens, while another group would rather feel the sense of accomplishment from planting seeds. It all depends on what you personally prefer.

Sometimes transplanting seedlings can introduce problems such as disease or insect infestation to an existing garden. That is why planting from seed is a good alternative for green house gardens.

At first, it may seem difficult to plant from seeds. It really isn't as long as you read and follow the directions carefully on the packet. And when the seedlings start to grow, it is important to protect them.

A good growing tray is a great accessory to have in your green house or garden and it is ideal for your plant seeds. Be sure to pick the best growing tray you can find. Your local garden nursery or center can recommend the best type to use.

Now that you have a good tray and seeds, you're ready to fill it with a high quality seed mixture. Although it may be tempting to use regular potting soil, don't. A "seed starting mix" is recommended and has been specially prepared for growing new seeds. (Sterile, no diseases or garden pests, etc.)

The next step is to plant your seeds in the starter mix after the growing trays have been prepared. Remember, seeds should be planted at least twice their own depth. If the seeds are very small, it might be a better idea to lightly cover the seeds with the planting mix. They may not sprout if they are buried too deep in the soil.

Don't forget to label your seed plantings in the tray. You can use a nursery label or a waterproof marker. It is not advisable to use the package the seeds came in since it will quickly get ruined from the moisture.

When watering your baby plants, be sure to use a misting sprayer since a watering can or hose could damage or uncover the seeds. To prevent evaporation of the moisture, your growing tray should be covered. Plus, covering the tray will also promote germination.

Heat is another great source for speeding up the germination process. Studies have shown that heat increases germination and many successful green house gardeners use this technique.

About The Author
Copyright 2006 David Ray. This article may be reprinted if the resource box is left intact and the links live. Visit Green-House-Gardening.com to learn more. David Ray is a full-time father, teacher, web developer, among other things. Visit his website at http://www.green-house-gardening.com
Dave@Green-House-Gardening.com

Easy Butterfly Gardening: Three Tips for Success

Butterfly gardens require several things to be successful: plants, water, and the right gardening attitude.

We can easily create lists of plants that butterflies love. Consider planting Asters, Joe-Pye weed, Black-eyed Susans, Lantana, Butterfly Bush, Butterfly Weed, Liatris, Pentas, Coreopsis and Purple Coneflowers. These are gorgeous plants and butterflies will flock to them in large numbers.

Gardeners can easily provide water by soaking the ground in an area next to favourite plants or by having small dishes/birdbaths with water in the garden. By providing water, you'll attract butterflies. If you have a small pond, lay a stick on the edge so one end is in the water and one end on the shore. This will provide an easy entranceway for both butterflies and frogs. It also looks more realistic than bare edged ponds.

And finally, we need to create a gardening attitude that says that in order to get those gorgeous butterflies, we need to feed the caterpillars that hatch out to be butterflies. It is OK to plant specific plants these immature insects require and it is OK if they chew them up. You have to have food in your garden for all phases of this creature if you want to attract them. The tip is to plant the following plants at the back of the garden so you wont' see the damage. Plant Wild Asters, Clover, Hollyhocks, Lupines, Mallows, Marigolds, Milkweed, Nettles and Thistles, Parsley, Passionflower (in baskets) Plantain, Snapdragons, Sorrel, Turtlehead and Violets.

About The Author
Doug Green, award winning garden author of 7 books, answers gardening questions in his free newsletter at http://www.gardening-tips-perennials.com.

Echinacea or Coneflower - the best thing in your bed

There are few things more exciting for gardeners at this time of year than dreaming of new plants. I'll focus on a few of the better plants in the next few weeks but let's start with the best example of new breeding.

Our old North American native friend Echinacea or purple coneflower is really letting loose this coming spring. The work of several major plant-breeding houses is coming to the market and while the plants will be expensive, they are wonderful. The double flowering 'Razzmatazz' with its double pink flowers are quite hardy as well as gorgeous. It will be complemented by 'Doppelganger' a coneflower that puts one blossom right on top of the first, resembling an apartment of flowers rather than a single bloom. Note that this double-decker flower usually comes into its own in the second year. This one has caught the imagination of the nursery trade almost as much as 'Sparkler' a variegated leaf coneflower. The variegation in 'Sparkler' is flecked throughout the leaf while the variegation in the equally new 'Prairie Frost' is a broad band of cream around each leaf.

I'm also looking forward to having 'Fragrant Angel' in my garden as its large white blooms are extremely fragrant. Add the 'Rocky Top Hybrids' to this list of coneflowers (mauve flowers and compact growth) and you have an entire menu of new Echinacea to find this coming summer. Two dwarf plants 'Kim's Mophead' and 'Kim's Knee High' will find themselves in my clay pots along with the 'Rocky Top Hybrids'.

Echinacea 'Big Sky Sunrise' has soft lemon-yellow blooms and is a knock out plant in my garden while its cousin 'Big Sky Sunset' has wide, very bright orange petals. These are both plants to watch for and pay the price. Hardy in my zone 4 garden.

Plant all these in full sun in well-drained soils and you'll enjoy them for years. They're trouble free and easy to grow plants!

About The Author
Doug Green, award winning garden author with 7 books published, answers gardening questions in his free newsletter at http://www.gardening-tips-perennials.com

Let's Plant Potatoes in the Garden

Potatoes, taters, spuds...call them what you will, potatoes are a staple in the diet of many people all over the planet. Potatoes are a nutritious, versatile vegetable, and they're incredibly easy to grow. But before you run out to the garden with your shovel and hoe, there are a few things you should know about planting potatoes.

You may have heard old timers say that potatoes should always be planted on Good Friday. This old wives' tale is absolutely absurd. Good Friday does not fall on the same calendar date each year and can fall anywhere from early March to mid April. If folks in New England or the upper Midwest tried to plant potatoes on Good Friday, many years they'd be digging through rock-hard soil that was still frozen solid.

Do not plant potatoes too early, while the ground is still icy. If the ground is too cold and wet, the seed potatoes will delay sprouting until the growing conditions are more favorable. This is usually in early March to late April, depending on the climate. Potatoes do tolerate cool soil and a light frost, but not much growth will take place until the soil warms up a bit.

You won't find potato seedlings or packets of potato seeds for sale at your local garden center. Instead, potatoes are grown from seed potatoes. A seed potato is nothing more than an ordinary potato, with at least one "eye".

Back in the days before supermarkets, when gardens supplied most of the food put on the table, the last of the potatoes in the storage bin come spring were used for seed potatoes.

Wise gardeners set aside their blemish-free, healthiest potatoes for seed. Seed potatoes can be planted whole, or they may be cut into pieces with at least one eye per piece. Seed potatoes with more eyes will grow to produce a larger quantity of potatoes but the potatoes will generally be smaller. Seed potatoes with fewer eyes will produce fewer potatoes, but those potatoes will tend to be larger.

If you choose to cut your seed potatoes into smaller pieces, divide them a day prior to planting. This allows the cuts to heal over slightly, which helps to prevent soil-borne diseases from infecting your potato crop. Always choose seed potatoes that are free from blemishes.

Plant your whole or cut seed potatoes two to three inches deep in good, rich soil. Rows of potatoes should be about three feet apart and the potatoes within the row should be planted twelve inches apart. If your potato crop has suffered from scab in the past, toss a small handful of dry pine needles in the holes beneath your seed potatoes. Along with moving your potatoes to a different section of the garden each year, this will help prevent further scab infection. Potato scab appears as rough patches on the skin of the potatoes.

Depending on the warmth of the soil, potato plants will begin to emerge from the soil anywhere from one to three weeks after planting. When the plants are about a foot tall, use your hoe to mound six to eight inches of soil continuously along the entire row of plants. This is called hilling. Hilling ensures that the potatoes will grow deeply under the soil, away from sunlight which would cause them to become green. Potatoes that suffer from greening will be bitter and the inedible green parts must be discarded.

Keep the potato plants evenly watered while they are growing. A dry period followed by a rainy spell will cause some potato varieties to develop a hollow core. Yukon Gold potatoes seem to be especially prone to this problem.

Another potential problem with potatoes is the Colorado potato beetle. The larvae and adult beetles will feed on the potato foliage, and a heavy infestation can damage the foliage enough to reduce your harvest considerably. Watch for the beetle's yellow eggs on the undersides of leaves and crush the clusters whenever you see them. Larvae are a deep orange color with a row of black spots on both sides, while the adults are a paler orange with black stripes on the body and black spots on the head. The larvae and adults can be picked off the leaves and crushed if there are only a few. An infestation can also be controlled with Bacillus thuringiensis, or Bt. Bt is an organic control that is very safe to use. Look for Bt that is specifically for potato beetles. It is sold in many garden catalogs and garden centers.

Once your potato plants have bloomed, you can begin to harvest small "new" potatoes. Depending on the variety of potatoes you're growing, this is about eight weeks after planting. In the fall, after the foliage has begun to dry and die back, the entire crop can be dug. Before storing them in a cool, dry and dark place, make sure the surface of your freshly dug spuds has dried a bit. Spread them out in a dry spot out of direct sun, such as a garage or shed, for a day or two before putting them in storage.

Freshly dug, crisp potatoes taste better than any you'll buy at a grocery store. Grow some yourself and discover how easy and fun it is to produce a staple crop of delicious potatoes for your family.

About The Author
Kathy Anderson has been an avid gardener for many years and has grown tomatoes by the acre, along with many other vegetables, flowers and landscape plants. Kathy recommends http://www.freeplants.com as a great place to learn more about gardening. Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com. If you use this article the above links must be active.
You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm