Friday, October 29, 2010

Is a Landscape Architect Really Necessary?

Many people feel that when they are ready to design a landscape, that a landscape architect is necessary. They do not feel that their natural tastes or inclinations are "correct," and they feel that they may irrevocably ruin their yard if they try something on their own. While it is true that some people may cause irreversible damage to their homes when they try their hand at design without a landscape architect, what they do not realize is that their problems have very little to do with design. A landscape architect will not actually install your features or plant your flowers, trees, and shrubs. That is up to you. You either have to do it yourself or hire someone to follow the plan drawn out by the architect. So, the question becomes whether or not you really need the help of a landscape architect to design your home environs.

Landscape architects can be very useful when it comes to using space. A square deck may save you money, but it may look out of place, and it may not be as usable as you would like. This is where a landscape architect can help. She or he can look at your available space, and suggest possible uses for it. These architects are experienced in combining utility with attractiveness, and it may be worth your while to spend $50-$200 for a consultation or two. It really depends on your budget, and whether you can afford such expensive advice. The architect may also be able to give you ideas for walkways, fences, and patios. However, it is important to note that most landscape architects are not gardeners, and many of them are not experts in plant care.

When working in a certain area, many landscape architects make use of commonly used plants that are widely known to grow well in a particular region. This means that you may end up with a design that, rather than being personal, looks very similar to other designs. Also, your architect is not going to be able to instruct you on what you need to do to amend your soil if the plants recommended will not flourish with the make up of your soil. Plus, many architects specify mature plants in their designs. This is because they are visualizing the attractive completed project. Mature plants cost much more than smaller plants, and such specifications may price you out of your landscape project.

The fact of the matter is that most people can determine their own preferences for landscapes by drawing out their own plans. With the help of local urban planning Web sites or a local university's plant specialist, it is possible to discover which plants thrive in your climate. Additionally, you can browse online to find plans for a variety of projects and flower gardens. If something looks comfortable and attractive to you, then there is no reason why cannot incorporate it into your landscape design. The key is trusting in your own taste.

Something that can be a lot less expensive than hiring a landscape architect to consult with and then to design your yard (the whole process can cost upward of $800-$1,000), it is possible to use software. Many stores sell this software, and it is available online. It is fun to use the software to figure out various possibilities for your home, and some of them even come with information like what you need for a specific design, and approximate cost estimates. This software not only provides great amusement, but it can also be helpful as you try to figure out what you would like to do about your landscape.

Landscape architects can be very helpful. They can help you determine feasibility and show you how to best utilize a space for beauty and function. However, these services do not come with a hefty price tag. An argument can be made for saving money in the long run, but unless you have a massive project undertaking, the services of a landscape architect are rarely completely necessary. You can sketch out your own ideas, or you can make use of software. And, as the average do-it-yourselfer does not often participate in a complete landscape overhaul, he or she is more than qualified to design for his or her own small landscape improvement projects

About The Author
Janeth Duque of Geeks On Steroids. Janeth is well-known in the world of web design and search engine optimization.
Web Site: Geeks on Steroids
View their website at: http://www.geeksonsteroids.com
janeth@geeksonsteroids.com

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Monday, October 25, 2010

How Vinyl Replacement Windows Can Save You Money

Imagine the home of your dreams. Is the old colonial style home that has historical significance but could use some updating? Perhaps it is the 1960s rambling ranch that gives you more single floor living space than you've ever dreamed of. If you have or would like to have an older home, chances are it could use some updating. One of the best ways to add value to your older home is by replacing the windows. Vinyl replacement windows are energy efficient, easy to clean, and add maintenance free beauty to any home.

Why Replace Windows?

Older windows that are generally made with wooden frames can warp or rot over time. They may at one time been well sealed, but over the years caulking flakes away and allows water to seep in. When water gets into the wood it expands and can rot, leaving spaces though which water and air can get into the house. Basically you have an aesthetic nightmare as well as horribly inefficient insulation against the elements.

Vinyl replacement windows take care of it all. The best part of the whole deal is that they will never rot or warp. The paint won't peel because there isn't any! The only maintenance they will ever need is cleaning – and that is many times easier than on old wooden windows with separate panes.

Vinyl Replacement Windows – A DIY Project

If you know how or are willing to learn how to replace a window, then you can install vinyl replacement windows. This great do-it-yourself project is an easy construction task.

First, you will need to remove the old window. If there is still a seal from the caulking you can cut it with a utility knife around the perimeter. Then with the help of a second person, push the window in or out with gentle pressure.

Once the old window is removed, then you will need to clean up the area around the window box by scraping off all old paint and debris. A clean surface is important in getting a good fit and seal for the new window.

Next check your measurements. If old windows have become a bit lopsided, then you can square it up with shims. This extra step will make the windows fit better.

Windows then are securely attached with screws. Finally, run a seal of silicone caulking around the edges for an extra strong seal.

Caring for Vinyl Replacement Windows

To wash replacement windows is so easy. The windows tilt in so cleaning the exterior side can be done safely from the inside. This is especially convenient for second story windows. Any storm windows that came with the old windows are no longer needed. The new windows are double-paned and insulated. Between the panes there can be decorative trims, so the surface to be cleaned in one smooth surface.

When it comes right down to it, there is no down side to installing vinyl replacement windows. They will add carefree beauty to your home for decades.

About The Author
Charles Mohaney writes frequently for http://www.replacement-windows-tips.com an online guide. Charles is working on topics such as http://www.replacement-windows-tips.com/vinyl-replacement-windows.html and home improvement.

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Friday, October 02, 2009

Pick Up That Hammer

I often encounter people who believe that carpenters were born carpenters and plumbers were born plumbers. Regardless of my encouragement, there are many folks who don't think they have the ability to build their own home.

I always give them all the same talk. We as human beings have the ability to learn new things and expand our horizons. If this weren't true, none of us would be able to walk, talk, drive a car, or even tie our shoes.

As a parent, I have helped my children through some of the most repetitious acts of learning. As a teacher and a mentor, I have taught people how to ride horses, program computers, speak Spanish, build houses, peak satellites, hold a newborn baby, raise a garden, the list goes on and on.

My point is that I have watched every type of person learn in different ways. I have noticed that we all have different levels of intellect. Some people are sharp as a tack and others are really quite thick. The truth that I have learned about most things in life is that a person with average intelligence has everything he or she needs to get by and even succeed with flying colors. Even those with fairly low intelligence have adequate learning abilities to do just fine.

So when people tell me that they aren't smart enough to build their own house, I just have to remind them that they are probably smart enough to do much more than just build houses. Some of the most intimidating projects in building a new house can be figured out with a little concentration. Electricity and Plumbing scare some homeowners into hiring the work done, when in truth, anybody can do those things.

I see all around me, examples of able-bodied people that choose to hire contractors to do work for them. This is just fine if the people have more money than time. If however, they have more time than money, they could really benefit from doing their own labor and saving thousands of dollars. In most cases the money saved by doing ones own labor translates into hundreds of thousands of dollars.

That's worth learning how to do something new. Anything in this world that will save us so much money and time over the long run is definitely something valuable to know.

Unfortunately, the majority of homeowners don't see it that way at all. To them it's acceptable to pay someone else to do all the work even if it means they will end up working almost a decade of their work life to make nothing but mortgage interest payments.

To me it's simple, work for three hours a day after work for one year to build my own house, or work for eight hours a day at a job for ten years to pay the interest on hired labor. If more of us could see the reality of hired labor, we would be more likely to make better choices.

I strongly believe that we are intelligent beings made in the likeness of fully intelligent beings. We have power to learn and overcome so that we can find happiness. Sometimes we all need to be reminded of that.

Larry Angell

About The Author
Larry Angell is the author of Sweat Equity, building a house at half cost. He runs an instructional website about how to build homes that are strong financial tools, not financial burdens. He counsels low-income families how to obtain affordable housing and reach goals of home ownership.
http://www.make-my-own-house.com

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Saturday, May 16, 2009

Do You Really Need a New Refrigerator?

SO YOU NEED A NEW REFRIGERATOR, THE DARNED THING ISN'T COOLING SUFFICIENTLY TO PROTECT YOUR FOOD.

MAYBE NOT :

Before we Begin:

1-Is the receptacle hot and is the plug plugged in well. Either a meter or a lamp plugged into the same receptacle will determine if it is hot. Pull the plug from the receptacle
and check it for scorch, brown burn marks, or rough arc on the connecting prongs.

2-Check the inside of the freezer and cooling compartment and determine if the food is not permitting air flow through the vents for the evaporator fan. This has embarrassed many homeowners. An intake vent at the bottom of the freezing compartment and a vent into the cooling compartment must be free to allow air circulation.

3-Pull the toe plate (front bottom at floor level) and check the condenser coil for lint and foreign matter stopping the air flow under the refrigerator. Air must circulate.

4-Do the door seals really seal or are they broken or cracked.

5-Is the back panel of the inside of the refrigerator or freezing compartment iced. There may be frost on this back panel indicating a frozen evaporator coil.

Now we Begin:

The evaporator coil and fan (in a two compartment refrigerator) will be located in the rear of the freezer compartment. Remove all food from the freezer. Remove the racks and the ice maker if applicable. The ice maker is held in place by three tie points. Normally one is under the tray and two above. Either a Phillips #2 screw or ¼ or 5/16 nut driver will be needed.

The evaporator compartment is hidden by a back panel inside the refrigerator. This can be opened by removing the screws securing it. Is the evaporator coil frozen solid? Is the small circulating fan running? Often the circulating fan will be frozen in place with ice on the coil. If so free it and check that the fan operates. This fan can be unplugged and a continuity check made through the two motor leads to determine the condition of the fan motor. An inexpensive meter for $10 or more is all that is needed. Air over the coil keeps the evaporator coil free of ice and circulates the cold air into the cooling compartment. If the fan is bad, replace it, defrost the coil and resume the operation of the unit. This is normally all that is necessary.

Refrigerators (as with air conditioners) have two coils involved in the refrigeration process. Air must circulate over both of these coils for the unit to operate and cool. One

In these tests remember that air must pass over both coils to create a lower temperature.

Listen for the compressor. When the thermostat is lowered below the temperature present in the refrigerator the compressor should start and run until the temperature of the thermostat is satisfied. Often the sound you will hear is the fan that blows air across the condenser coil under the refrigerator.

It may be necessary to pull the unit from the wall and remove the black (normally cardboard or plastic) panel by removing the either ¼ or 5/16 hex screws. Feeling the compressor vibrate should enable one to determine if the compressor is running. One can normally hear the compressor and it will be warm to the touch. The smaller of the tubes leaving the compressor will be warm to hot.

If the condenser coil is under the refrigerator, there will be a small electric fan that pulls air across the coil when the compressor is running. It will be visible from the rear, inside the compartment exposed by removing the panel. This fan must run for the unit to operate. At this point check the coils for obstructions. Many times lint and other matter will block the air flow across the coils disallowing a good air flow. Air must circulate freely.

If this fan is not working, check the continuity of the wiring with an ohm meter and rotate the fan blade by hand to determine if a bad bearing in the motor has frozen. Disconnect refrigerator by unplugging the cord from the wall. The leads for the fan can be disconnected and continuity checked. No Continuity - bad motor. Frozen Bearing - bad motor. This motor is a sealed and self lubricated. A replacement will be available at any refrigeration supply house for $15 or so. I normally get supplies at First Choice.

Check out my website http://www.baldeagletraders.com I carry many tools needed for appliance repair.

Eddie

About The Author
Eddie Ellison - I am an electrician by trade,but have been involved in many types of construction and appliance maintance for most of my life. I am now retired, but have stayed involved in all of these activities on a part time basis.

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Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Drip Drip Drip…That Darn Leaky Faucet!

Drip drip drip...that darn leaky faucet!

We've all been there, trying to fall asleep and the only thing we can focus on is that dreaded sound: drip, drip ,drip. So you get up and you think I just have to turn the handle tighter to make the drip stop, yea if it were only that easy!

But you don't need to call a plumber and spend money on a service call with a few easy steps you can become your own "master plumber"

The first thing you need to do is turn off the water supply to the sink, most of the time the valve is located right underneath, if not you need to follow the plumbing line to the nearest shut off valve. If the valve resists being turned, put a drop or two of oil right where the stem disappears into the large nut. Then use a wrench to loosen the nut one complete turn, and tighten it back up by hand. Wait for a couple of minutes and then you should be able to turn the valve off.

The second thing to do is remove the stem from the top of the fixture, then there will be nut that needs to be turned counterclockwise to be taken off. Grasp the handle and turn it counterclockwise, as if you were turning on the water. The whole thing will lift out in your hand. If you have a ball-type fixture, there will be a setscrew on the lower surface of the handle itself, remove the screw. There will be a plastic ring or cap just unscrew and remove then pull out the ball assembly.

Your almost finished, just need to replace the washer, which should still be attached the ball assembly you just pulled out, there's a screw holding it on so remove that, replace it with the new washer, tighten the screw back on, be sure not to go to tight where the washer starts to become damaged. Reinsert the stem assembly, and twist it firmly clockwise (don't over tighten it). Tighten the large nut back into place. Turn the water valve back on and that's it! If it still leaks it may mean you have to replace the valve seat or replace the entire fixture. You will need to purchase a repair kit that you can find at your local plumbing supply or hardware store.

Use the following steps to replace the ball type fixture: Using the end of the screwdriver, lift out the rubber seats and springs. Replace them with the new ones in the kit. Tug the spout off the base by turning it from side to side and lifting up. Then use the screwdriver to leverage the old O-rings off the base. If they need to be cut off, make sure that you clean off any remaining pieces. Roll the new O-rings over the base to replace them. Re-seat the faucet by turning it from side to side while pushing down. Place the ball assembly back in there, and screw the rounded, knurled cap back on. Before retightening the adjusting ring with the special tool, turn the water back on. Then tighten the ring until no water leaks, but don't over tighten it. Replace the handle, and tighten the setscrew. You should be all set! It's a good idea before starting this job to go to your local plumbing supply with the make of your faucet just to make sure that all the necessary parts are available.

About The Author
Kenneth Davis was born and raised in Bergen County New Jersey, where with his family owns a retail tool store called TOOLTOWN for more than 45 years. Ken started working with the family in his teens and now with his two brothers are running the business and continuing the family tradition of helping and building relationships with the community. You can stop by his store at www.tooltown.com and check out his products, services and other tips-techniques and do it yourself projects.
tooltownorders@tooltown.com

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Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Hiring An Home Improvement Trade Online

Have you ever tried to hire any type of construction trade over the last 5 years? If so you know that it's next to impossible unless you are some billionaire developer with his own T.V. show. The simple fact is that trades are just like any other business and follow the money. There is nothing wrong with the trades trying to please their biggest customer or taking care of customers that they expect will continue to build once the housing boom is over. In fact if you want a major non-essential renovation on your home, you may want to consider waiting until the housing boom slows down.

Very simply all reputable housing trades want to earn the most amount of money they can while the housing boom lasts. Again nothing wrong with this. Ask yourself what you would do in their shoes? or their boots.

What if you need housework done now?

Here are some quick money saving tips

1. Consider hiring a general contractor vs. doing it yourself. The idea is that a general contractor will have a full time loyal crew working for him. Often he is able to pay his crew less in return for steady work. So by hiring a contractor its often cheaper that trying to hire the trades yourself individually.

2. Pair your needs up with a friend and offer the trade both jobs. DO NOT, I repeat do not insult the trade with an offer like "if you do a good job on my house I will recommend you to many others". When I first started in business I believed this empty promise and never end getting one lead from anyone who said this. Now as a seasoned business person I would just answer that for every new paying customer they bring me I will deduct X amount off their bill.

3. Due Diligence—there are lots of way to find new contractors and trades. Try looking online or searching a home improvement directory

About The Author
Kris Koonar is President of Crack Marketing leading a team of Internet Marketing Consultants with over 5 years of experience and 100's of projects. He is also writer of an Internet Marketing Course called "The Website MBA"
crackmarketing.com
Kris can be contacted at 1.877.270.7170 or kris@crackmarketing.com

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Tuesday, February 05, 2008

Adhesives Provide 'Nail Power' Without the Nails

Homeowners are finding that adhesives are indispensable when it comes to do-it-yourself projects around the home. Adhesives add stability and strength to most projects and offer an easy way to make projects "stick."

In fact, professional contractors say using the right adhesives can prevent a lot of costly maintenance down the line. And, a degree isn't needed to select the right adhesive. All it takes is a quick trip to the local hardware store and a brief introduction to the adhesives aisle. Most adhesives are self-explanatory, and the packaging gives detailed directions on what kinds of materials the adhesive works with best.

The makers of Nail Power offer these tips for deciding which adhesives will meet your needs:

Once you get familiar with adhesives, you will find that there are adhesives for practically all jobs around the home, from basic home projects and repairs to heavy-duty construction needs, which can require a bond stronger than wood itself. Certain adhesives can also be used on wet or frozen lumber.

For those "strong as nails" projects like putting up drywall or paneling, there are adhesives engineered to eliminate nail pops and reduce nailing up to 50 percent.

A tub surround adhesive can provide quick adhesion to reduce extended and complicated bracing. Although it provides a strong bond, the solvent-free adhesive will not damage the plastic panels, and maintains resistance to water, heat and steam.

There is also a water-resistant adhesive specifically designed for vinyl and rubber cove bases. The adhesive prevents vinyl from curling, holding the material in place.

What about that mirror in the bedroom that's been leaning against the wall since you moved in? There is an easy-to-use mirror mastic adhesive that can permanently mount a mirror to wood, drywall or painted surfaces. Now, isn't it great to get the "full view" in the mirror?

There's not much Nail Power adhesives won't stick to. If you want to learn more about the kinds of adhesives that can help with your "stickiest" DIY home projects, visit www.nailpower.com.

About The Author
Courtesy ARA Content, www.ARAcontent.com; e-mail: info@ARAcontent.com

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Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Finish Your Painting Projects Without Sacrificing Your Free Time

With a little planning, you can complete your painting projects faster than ever, without sacrificing all of your free time.

The first step is to get organized. Buy all your painting materials before the weekend, so that when it's time to get started, you won't waste time tracking down supplies. Your checklist should include paint applicators, a drop cloth, stepladder, screwdriver for removing hooks, switch plates and the like, masking tape for window edges, and of course, enough paint to complete the project.

Shortcut your painting prep by spreading it out over a couple of evenings, or do it the weekend before painting. Carve out manageable bits of time to do the routine tasks such as patching and filling holes, removing grease or crayon marks -- even removing cobwebs from corners and ceilings. If your wall surfaces have mildew on them, try removing it using one part bleach in three parts water and then rinsing. Let everything sit for a couple days, so you're ready to dive in and paint on the big day.

Some projects require more diligent treatment of surfaces. If you need to remove wallpaper, there are several power prep tools that can save time and elbow grease. For example, Wagner Spray Tech offers power wallpaper steamers in a variety of styles and sizes that can provide a fast, clean way to remove the paper without having to use chemicals, solvents or detergents.

When it's time to start painting, consider using some of the newer products on the market that are designed to give fast, professional-looking results, such as Wagner Spray Tech's new QuickTouch electric paint rollers. Simply attach a standard gallon-sized paint can, insert the paint hose, turn the unit to "paint" mode, and you're ready to go. The rollers make it fast and easy, eliminate back-bending trips to the roller tray, and greatly reduce the potential for messy drips and spills by eliminating the need to pour paint.

Choose the QuickTouch version that fits your job: The QuickTouch Power Roller package includes painting project basics, including a 12-foot hose, 14-inch extension and spatter shield for approximately $79.99. The QuickTouch Power Roller PRO offers even more options to make bigger projects go faster, including a five gallon adapter, variable speed control, a built-in carrying handle, 18-inch extension cord and a trim pad, for approximately $119.99.

If you've got an especially large painting territory to cover, consider a battery-operated roller. Wagner Spray Tech makes a portable model, the 929 Variable Speed Power Roller, which can apply 20 gallons of paint (enough to cover five average-sized rooms) on one set of batteries. It's not only easy to operate, it's easy on the operator. It has an ergonomically designed handle with fingertip control, quick release for simple assembly and cleanup, and a paint distribution system that enhances the flow of paint for better coverage. At a suggested retail price of $49.00 to $59.00, it can provide fast, professional results for a relatively small investment.

After your painting project is complete, clean up can be quicker than ever, too. Try rubbing protective cream onto your hands before you paint -- it'll ensure faster and easier removal of paint from your skin. To remove paint from the electric or battery powered rollers, simply insert the paint hose into a bucket of water, switch the unit to "clean" mode, let water circulate for about 10 minutes, and you're done.

When your painting is complete and your tools have been tucked away for the next project, there's just one final task. Pack up your family and head for the beach -- it's the perfect place to relax while you're waiting for the paint to dry.

For more information on painting equipment, including The QuickTouch Power Roller and QuickTouch Power Roller PRO, or other Wagner Spray Tech products, call (763) 553-7000 or visit www.wagnerspraytech.com.

Wagner Spray Tech Corporation, headquartered in Minneapolis, is the leading manufacturer of consumer and commercial power painting equipment as well as faux-finishing products.

About The Author
Courtesy of ARA Content, www.ARAcontent.com; e-mail: info@ARAcontent.com

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Saturday, December 08, 2007

Make Soundproofing A Part Of Today’s Home Improvement


Want a simple behind the scenes way to increase the comfort and value of your home? Soundproofing may sound like something only professional recording artists need, but you will be surprised at how much you will enjoy the added quiet that soundproofing supplies to your home environment.

There are many areas where soundproofing can be added in order to make for a quieter space. Sometimes it the outside disturbances of traffic or barking dogs that you would like to block out. Other times, you may want to keep noises from one room inside your home from seeping into other areas. Depending on the way you want to manage and control sound, there is a soundproofing technique that will meet your needs.

Keeping Noise Out

One of the most effective ways to keep street noise from entering your home is to soundproof your windows. Normal windows are given a sound blocking rating on a numerical scale. The percentage of noise that soundproof windows can block out increases substantially with these special windows.

The best part of the whole process is that it is easy. When you add soundproof windows to your home it will look just the same as the old windows. In fact, the old windows remain in place and the extra glass barrier is added to them. Windows will still open and close in the same manner too, but the panel of glass and the air pocket created by the double pane greatly reduces noise.

Sound proof windows differ from just plain double pane storm windows. The greatest effect is in the amount of space between the two panels of glass. It is just the right amount to trap unwanted noise, and it has the added benefit of staying clean inside because of the air block seal.

Keeping Sound In

Another area where soundproofing may be wanted is in a home theatre. If you want to keep the sound from the stereo system from getting distorted or disturbing others around the house, then there are sound proof panels that can be added to the room. These panels are usually made of foam, resembling an egg crate, but other materials are being made and tested every day. These look more like decorative panelling, yet offer the same noise control.

Ceilings and floors can help prevent the escape of noise between rooms. By adding insulation, similar to that which keeps the cold out in the winter and the heat in, you can reduce noise in and out of the room.

Soundproofing - Doing It Yourself

If you are good the DYI projects, then soundproof is one you can tackle. It is best to leave the windows to the professional installers, but during any renovation of your house, you should consider sound proofing as important a decoration as the carpet or wallpaper. When you need to repair drywall for example, consider adding the insulation that will reduce noise. After all, no one wants to be enjoying lunch in the kitchen or on the patio and have to listen to a teen's stereo from the bedroom! Soundproofing may not be something you would have missed until you have it once. Then you will be thinking about it anytime a noise gets in the way of your peace and quiet.

About The Author
Ken Morris releases many news and information to the internet site http://www.soundproofing-tips.com. Within his publication he is working on topics like floor sound insulation ( http://www.soundproofing-tips.com/floor-sound-insulation.html ) and provides information on acoustical foam.

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Sunday, December 02, 2007

DIY Ladder Safety Tips


In 2004 The United States department of Labor reported that the number of injuries and fatalities from falls from roofs and ladders had increased. This report focused on occupational injuries that generally occur among trained personnel, which speaks to an even greater safety concern over DIY projects utilizing ladders.

Most accidents occur from incorrect use of the ladder or materials. Before you begin a project make sure that you have gone through safety preparations and are familiar with the tools to be used. As in most DIY projects, the best safety precaution is to think out your task thoroughly before beginning. You should have confidence in both yours and your equipment's ability to complete the project.

Getting Started:

Once you have decided that you need to use a ladder to complete your project, make sure that you have the right type of ladder. There are many types of ladders all with their own advantages and disadvantages, which may include weight and height limits. If you are not sure that your ladder is the best fit for the job, make sure to consult a professional.

Some general things to look for in a ladder are:

How strong is it?
How tall is it?
Is it made primarily for indoor or outdoor use?
What material is it made out of (certain materials can have unique weaknesses or safety concerns)?
Does it have any cracks?
Does it have a coating such as paint that could cover defects?
Are the rungs secured?
Are the footpads secure and dry?

Diving into your Project:

While you may be eager to get started on your project, please take the time to ensure that your ladder is set-up correctly and that you know how to use it safely.

1. Make sure your ladder is steady. Place the ladder on a surface that is strong and level; also make sure that the ladder is not on top of any slippery materials.

2. If using a stepladder, make sure that the spreader arms are in the locked, open position.

3. If you are using a straight or extension ladder, make sure the ladder is resting at the correct angle to the wall or structure it is leaning on. The angle is normally 75-80 degrees. Or for every 4 ft high the ladder is on the wall, make the base 1 ft away from the bottom of the wall.

4. If using a straight or extension ladder, make sure that the top of the ladder is resting against a straight and solid surface.

5. Make sure that you have at least three points of contact with the ladder when working, such as two feet and one hand.

6. Wear flat shows or boots with grip when working on a ladder

7. Do not carry heavy items while climbing the ladder, use some type of hoist or pulley system to retrieve the items instead

8. Don't work on a ladder in strong wind

9. Don't allow children near the ladder

10. Never stand on the top two rungs of the ladder

11. Stay centered and facing the ladder when climbing or working

These ten tips will help keep you safe, however they are not all-inclusive. If you have any questions about your ladder or safety concerns about your project, make sure to consult an expert.

About The Author
Amanda Miller is a home repair and interior design expert. She has reviewed numerous home improvement tools such as little giant ladder systems.

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Saturday, October 06, 2007

Build Your Own Garage Workbench


A garage workbench is an essential piece of equipment in any home workshop. A workbench will allow you to complete projects easily and with greater accuracy. A variety of pre made workbenches are available to fit your needs. If you prefer, you can make your own workbench, either with a kit or from a plan.

Choosing a garage workbench

Workbenches are available in a wide variety of sizes and styles. Benches are great for woodworking, crafts and other household projects. You can purchase a bench at most home improvement stores. Another option is to build your own bench. You can find plans in books and on the internet with instructions to create the perfect bench to suit your needs.

A table style workbench is made of heavy duty materials to stand up to regular use. Most models have a hardwood top with metal legs. Table tops can also be made of steel. These resemble a typical table shape with nothing underneath.

Cabinet style benches have drawers or cabinets in the space under the table top. This is great for utilizing otherwise wasted space. This method allows for additional storage space. Some have a pegboard backing that is perfect for hanging hand tools. You won’t need to dig through drawers or a tool box to find what you need.

A power strip bench is a good choice if you use power tools often. These come with up to nine outlets in a strip with a heavy duty power cord. They also have current protection to prevent overload. These can be either six or eight foot benches. Some have a tool caddy to hold smaller tools.

Build Your Own Workbench

Consider building your own bench to get exactly what you want. Kits are available with everything you need to create your bench. Instructions and materials are included with the kit. With this method, you will be limited to the kit’s design. The benefit is that all pieces are pre cut. You won’t need to worry about uneven cuts.

You can build your own bench and purchase all the materials. This method is a bit more complicated, but you have more control about the final outcome. Free workbench plans are available on the internet with detailed instructions for you to follow. Cut the plywood according to the directions and be sure to make your cuts straight.

For best results, choose good quality wood, oak or a hardwood plywood is an excellent choice. Use several coats of polyurethane to protect the top of the bench. Be sure to sand between each coat. A good urethane coating makes messes easier to clean up when working on projects later.

Organizing and Making Room in your Garage

You will need to organize your garage and create storage space to make room for workbenches. Determine what you need to store. Start with a good clean out and get rid of things you don’t need. Throw away old paint and other junk. Give away or donate old items, tools or other things that are too good to throw away, but that you don’t need any more.

The walls of your garage offer great opportunities for storage space. Cabinets are great for organizing clutter. High cabinets are good for storing chemicals and paints. Sharp items can be put up high to keep them away from children. Consider locks if you have young children. Locker cabinets are perfect for larger items. Drawers are good for organizing tools, fishing equipment and other small items.

About The Author
Jack Blacksmith writes articles for http://www.inside-woodworking.com. He is trying to help people on his informative website on topics around http://www.inside-woodworking.com/workbenches-clamps/garage-workbench.html and workshop organisation.

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Monday, February 05, 2007

Ten Easy Tips for Installing Ceiling Fan


Current info about ceiling fan is not always the easiest thing to locate. Fortunately, this report includes the latest ceiling fan info available.

You may be a "do it yourself" (DIY) expert, having installed countless ceiling fans in numerous homes—both yours and those of various family and friends. However, even though you have the basics down, every DIYer knows: there's always another trick out there to make the process a little easier. So although the following is not an exact step-by-step guide to installing a ceiling fan, this should give you a few hints to make the process a breeze!

When buying, remember that not all fans were created alike. In addition to price and style, some other factors to consider when buying your fan are:

Motor: more inexpensive fans often have an outer covering of thin metal, which increases the likelihood of rattles, clicks, hums, or buzzes during operation. Since many fans are installed in bedrooms, this can become an important consideration

Blades: Blade pitch can determine how effectively air is moved—an optimum pitch is 14 degrees. Also ensure that blades are balanced to avoid wobble.

Lighting: As in any other lighting situation, keep in mind lighting that is appropriate to the room’s size and function.

Room size: Not surprisingly, fans and rooms both vary in size. Make sure they vary accordingly in your house! Fans usually come in seven sizes, ranging from 32" to 56" blade spans. Come to the store armed with room measurements and speak with a lighting representative.

Mounting: For best results, fan blades need to be a minimum of seven feet above the floor, and have 12" clearance below the ceiling. For lower ceilings, choose a close or low-ceiling mount fan. With higher ceilings, you can purchase a standard or angled mount with an extension down rod.

Bonus! For maximum effect, purchase a reversible fan that helps cool you in the summer and pushes warm air down from the ceiling in the winter to keep you comfortable year round.

Make a list and check it twice. At the most basic level, you'll need the ceiling fan/light kit, screwdrivers, wire strippers, a circuit tester, pliers, and step ladder. If you need to replace the ceiling box, you’ll also need a new ceiling box, a hammer, and a drywall saw. Run through the installation process in your mind before actually picking up a tool to ensure that you have all the necessary components—nothing is more frustrating than being stuck on a step ladder, holding up the ceiling fan, and realizing the tool you need is tucked away in the toolbox in the basement!

Is everything making sense so far? If not, I'm sure that with just a little more reading, all the facts will fall into place.

Inventory the fan as you unpack. As you take the fan out of its box, give yourself plenty of room to inventory the multitude of pieces and parts. Then lay the parts out in order of installation. This way, you'll be confident that you have all the parts before you start, and you'll be able to move smoothly from one step to the next.

Turn off the electricity! You already know this, but it's always worth mentioning. Turn off power to the light's circuit breaker or fuse. Ensure the circuit is truly "dead" by checking with a high-voltage neon tester. If you're working at night, a flashlight might be handy at this point.

Mounting the box: Always use a metal junction box—not plastic. Another item to keep in mind when mounting the box is that there’s several ways to mount it, depending on whether the box is next to a joist, in-between joists, or being mounted on a beamed ceiling. If no fixture was in the room previously, find the center of the room by snapping chalk lines diagonally between opposite corners. Also, the mounting must be able to withstand vibration, as even the most balanced fans cause some level of vibration when running.

Assemble. This step varies from one manufacturer to the next. Pay close attention to the specific instruction for your fan brand and style. However, keep in mind that if there is less than a screwdriver’s length between the blade and the ceiling, it might be easier to install the blades before hanging the fan. When you are finished, again check all screws for tightness.

Hang fan for wiring. Install the hanger hook or attach the ceiling plate to the fan box, whichever is appropriate for your fan model. If attaching a hanger bracket, but sure to use a lock washer, which will help prevent the fan’s vibration from loosening screws in the future.

Wiring the fan. To facilitate the wiring process, swag kits can make installation easier than ever. To improve ease of use once the fan is installed, you can also wire the ceiling fan through a fan speed control. Always electrically ground the fan to both the metal box and itself, using the grounding wires (typically either green or bare copper).

Let there be light! Install the light kit and controls you have chosen. This step typically varies according to individual models. However, in general the wires are provided with plug-in connectors. Be sure to tighten everything securely. Install the globe(s) and the light bulb(s).

Troubleshooting wobbles. Fan wobbles can range in severity from a minor irritation to a seriously hazardous situation. If you notice your fan wobbling, the first step is to take off the blades and examine them. Look for bent or misshapen blades. If you don’t see any obvious deformities, weigh them to determine if one is lighter or heavier than the rest. If one is underweight, affix a soft object such as an eraser to the middle on the top and see if that resolves the problem. For wobbles that are still unexplained, fan balancing kits with detailed instructions are also available.

You’re finished! Pat yourself on the back and enjoy the delightful breeze from your new ceiling fan.

You can't predict when knowing something extra about ceiling fan will come in handy. If you learned anything new about ceiling fan in this article, you should file the article where you can find it again.


About The Author
Masni Rizal Mansor is co-publisher of MyFurnitureOnline.com. He provide tips and review on designer furniture,comtemporary furniture and how to locate discount furniture store.

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