Home Improvement – Don’t Exceed Comps In Your Area

For most homeowners, the pride of ownership includes a consistent home improvement effort. While this makes sense, be careful you don't improve the property so much that you can't recover the costs when it is sold.

Home Improvement

You've picked up a heck of a deal on a home in a nice neighborhood. The purchase price was $200,000 and you put twenty five percent down [$50,000]. The comparable homes, "comps", in the neighborhood appraised for $300,000. Yes, your home is a bit run down, but that's why they have Home Depot and weekends! You'll just fix the ugly ducking up and pocket a quick $100,000 in equity when all your projects are done. What a country!

This situation definitely has potential. The value of the home is so low when compared to the comps that a relatively quick equity grab certainly looks possible if the home can be fixed up. Off to Home Depot we go...

Let's do an evaluation of our ugly ducking. Put another way, what needs to be done to get it on par with the other ducks in the neighborhood? Okay, we need new doors, new windows and landscaping in a very big way. The drive way looks like a toxic dump sat on it and we aren't even going to get into the peeling, ugly paint on the home. Pricing everything, deciding to use homeowner labor as much as possible and so on, we find it is going to run roughly $50,000 to makeover our ugly duckling. It's going to be a lot of work, but that's what weekends are for. We should still come out with a $50,000 gain and $100,000 in total equity considering our $50,000 down payment.

Budgets and Temptation

The problem with the above scenario is it is very hard to stick to a budget. If you've owned a home, you're already familiar with this problem. If you are buying a home for the first time, watch out!

With homeownership, the structure you own quickly evolves into "my home." Once this occurs, you tend to view the quality of your home as a statement to the world and you want to show the world your best. Instead of buying moderately priced cabinets for the kitchen, you buy custom pieces that would make Bill Gates envious. Counter tops soon become marble counter tops. Refinishing the driveway evolves into putting in an entirely new one with brick inlays. And so it goes.

You are no longer trying to bring your home up to the standard of the neighborhood homes. You are trying to turn the home into a swan and swans are expensive. After making all your improvements, you are distressed to find the total cost being $90,000 instead of $50,000. For all your hard work and effort, you've realized only a $10,000 gain in equity.

In Closing

Make sure you objectively budget improvements and stick to those budgets. While there is something to be said for making a home glow, make sure it makes financial sense.

About The Author
Raynor James is with http://www.fsboamerica.org - providing FSBO homes for sale by owner. Visit our "sell my home?" page at http://www.fsboamerica.org/seller.cfm to list and sell your home for free for one month. Visit http://www.fsboamerica.org/buyer.cfm to see homes for sale by owner.

Rustic Stone House Signs

You may own a remarkably constructed, attractive house that is perfect from every angle. The outside of the house is designed to demand a second look from anyone passing by. So it's important that people know the name of the particularly well-constructed house. Also anyone visiting the house should easily be able to locate it hence putting up your house name or street address in a legible and presentable manner is of utmost importance.

Among the commonplace options available for choosing the type of house sign or plaque for the house is a metal sign that might rust after sometime or the wooden signs that could crumble and become illegible. Therefore a solid everlasting piece of stone to display the name of one's house is essential. Our handpicked stones express a lavish, individual view about the house and provide a high-quality first hand _expression of the owner.

The natural unpolished stones are perfectly resistant towards any type of corrosion or decay that could occur in our lifetime. Once the desired inscription is engraved on the stone and is mounted on walls or the sides of the door or at any other place of owner's choice it stands there with out any cause for concern. Unless some one intentionally removes the plaque or house sign from its place there is no need to worry about the sign. Another added advantage of slate signs is that it is almost maintenance free. It can stand all weathers and climatic condition with out getting damaged.

The house owner's name and address written on a stone and slate plaque also gives an impression of the solid personality and individuality of the owner. Since the stones come in varying sizes, and shapes its very simple for anyone to find a plaque or freestanding stone to suit their individual tastes and preferences. Any design or text, as per the choice of the client can be inscribed on stones. The names and addresses along with any specific graphics can be engraved permanently on slate pieces. The wide variety of fonts is available for customers to choose the typeface that best suits their taste.

Lots of endeavor to get the finest quality of stones ensure that our clients get best available quality of the material. Also before inscribing finally on the slate, a proof reading of the artwork and chosen stone by the client makes sure that there are no problems after the job is done. Also the delivery service is very prompt so that there are no discrepancies later.

Adding to already existing qualities of a stone plaque is the fact that is comes at a very genuine price. The price tag of a slate house sign is set by the size of sign not the text engraved, although images may cost more and require artwork to copy, hence is easily affordable by anyone aspiring to give a smart look to the outside of their house.

About The Author
Mansi Gupta writes about house signs in stone. Learn more at http://www.rusticstone.net.

Protective Coatings For Your Home

There are several areas of your home that suffer from extensive damage, whether it is due to poor weather, physical damage or simply because of old age. Protective coatings are a great way to help these areas remain durable and resistant against negative elements. One of the most delicate surfaces around your home is the driveway and garage floor. You can use some tough protective coatings to protect such spaces - simply brush or roll the coating in an easy but effective action that will protect your driveway from all sorts of damage. For concrete floors, choose a high quality epoxy coating - this is an excellent addition to the floor's structure because it soaks in and becomes part of the concrete matrix. High chemical and fuel resistance also recommends such coatings for garages and workshops. Most top grade protective coatings are engineered to self level and have different characteristics such as being resistant to chemicals, spilled fuel, brake fluid and acids, is impact resistant to 500 PSI, heat resistant to 350 + degrees, color-fast, non-chalking and resists cracking, chipping and peeling.

Due to recent advancements, several top class products appeared on the protective coatings market. Choosing a silicone based epoxy ester single component epoxy product, for example, will guarantee excellent resistance and unsurpassed flexibility, two very desirable elements of any coating system. Such products are reinforced with alkyd and urethane, two special components that augment the qualities of the protective coating. The interesting thing about such a waterproof floor coating is that it is the same product used on aircraft carriers. This means that, originally, it was designed to withstand extreme damage, such as jet fighter landings and take offs, fuel leaks, flaming jet exhausts and so on. Imagine how resistant such a protective coating would be on your driveway!

Epoxy coatings are also used in protecting other materials, such as wood, concrete, metal, fiberglass... and the list goes on. Not only do they do their job with military precision, these epoxy coatings are also lead-free, making them safe for the environment. When they dry, the protective coatings are completely harmless and non-toxic, so you don't have to worry about your pets or children. You can top the coating with a clear finish, especially if you purchase one with UV inhibitors that guarantee a long life. Such a finish would make the protected surface look even better than it originally did, plus with the extra protection it brings. When properly applied, such protective coatings do not chip or break and most good manufacturers and retailers offer guarantees that extend up to 5 years.

About The Author
Jeff Martin writes articles for many well known newspapers and is currently writing a book that is set to be released at the end of March 2006.
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Skip Troweling Method for Textured Ceilings

There are several ceiling texture choices to choose from when finishing a room. You can simply apply a flat paint to the ceiling, or spray or roll on a popcorn textured ceiling. However both these choices seem to be waning in popularity to the Skip Toweled look. The Skip Troweled look provides a compromise between the flat painted ceiling and the popcorn ceiling. It provides texture but to a lesser extent than a traditional popcorn ceiling.

Skip Troweling is relatively simple to do and can be performed by a homeowner who is doing a home addition project.

Skip Troweling should be performed after the sheetrock, mudding and taping are complete. Skip Troweling simply involves applying water downed Joint Compound onto the ceiling and running a trowel over it once.

To Skip Trowel a ceiling, simply water down a batch of Joint Compound to a soupy consistency. Then using a trowel (the pros use a sprayer for large areas) simply spread the material onto the ceiling.

Note that this is a very messy job as there will be significant spillage and dripping. Consequently protect yourself and your floors with eye-protection and plastic on the floors.

If the Joint Compound is of the right consistency the material applied onto the ceiling will begin to form stalactites that dangle from the ceiling. Not too worry as this is what you want to occur.

After the joint compound has begun to dry somewhat, use your trowel to knock off the high points (the stalactites). To do this, simply run your trowel over the now partially stiff joint compound area. The completed surface will have a mottled look.

Let the Joint Compound completely dry then paint the ceiling using a roller.

When employing the Skip Trowel method you can get creative by adding fine sand to the Joint Compound mixture before applying to the ceilings, or by moving the Trowel in a swirling pattern when applying the compound. In addition, some of the pros actually mix paint with the soupy Joint Compound mixture to eliminate the need for applying paint after the material has dried.

About The Author
Over the past 20+ years Mark Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. For more home improvement information visit http://www.homeadditionplus.com and http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com.

Shingling a Roof

Shingling or roofing a house is a major undertaking for a homeowner and extreme caution is required. This said, a Do-It-Yourselfer homeowner can shingle or roof their own home with a little knowledge and the right tools.

Required Tools

In order to roof a house properly and safely the following tools are needed: Ladders, Roof Jacks, Hammer, Carpenters Knife, Chalk Line, and preferably a compressor or nail gun.

Estimating Materials

Typically the roof is measured in squares, where a "square" represents 100 square feet. There are eighty shingles in one square. However, when you go to your local home improvement store shingles are usually sold in bundles. Usually three bundles equal one square, however this can vary slightly pending the shingle style.

Measure the area of your roof (length x width) and divide by 100 to get the number of squares required. Then multiply this number by three to get the number of bundles of shingles required for the job. Add an additional 10-15% for spare, leaning toward the 15% if your roof has hips and valleys.

Drip edge, ice and water shield, asphalt paper, flashing, roofing nails, and hip and ridge vents will also be required. The Drip edge comes in various lengths. Measure the outside perimeter of the roof to calculate the drip edge required. The ice and water shield, asphalt paper and flashing come in roles. Use your roof square area calculation for determining your asphalt paper requirements. Typically only one or two courses of ice and water shield is required along the bottom/eave of the roof and in the valleys. Calculate 2 times the length of the roof and valleys to estimate the amount of ice and water shield required.

Typically each shingle will require 4-6 roofing nails and flashing usually comes in 16" wide roles or 6x6 or 8x8 square inch steps. Step flashing is typically used around chimneys, dormers and side wall junctions. Hip and Ridge vent will vary with local building codes, however a rough estimate would be to measure the length of your roof's hip and ridges and take 75% of this figure for calculating the amount of vent required.

You should now be able to fairly accurately calculate the cost of material for roofing your home.

Installing the Drip Edge

Nail the Drip edge around the entire outside perimeter of the roof.

Apply the Ice and Water Shield Membrane and the Asphalt Paper

Apply the ice and water shield material such that it is flush with the drip edge. If the climate in your area has harsh winters and/or significant annual rainfall, add a second course of ice and water shield for added protection. You should also add the ice and water shield membrane in the valleys.

Next apply the asphalt paper to the entire roof, starting from the bottom and working towards the ridge. Make sure each course of asphalt paper overlaps the lower row by several inches (effectively shingling with the asphalt paper).

Install metal flashing

Install metal flashing in all of the valleys. Step flashing around chimneys and dormers will be added as the shingles are installed.

Installing the Shingles

Start the shingling at the bottom of the roof (or at the eaves). Lay a starter course such that the bottom edge of the shingle lines up flush with the drip edge. The starter strip is a "tabless" shingle that you make from the regular shingles using your carpenter's knife.

Lay your next course of full shingles over the first course, staggering the starter joints from the first course to prevent water penetration.

Note: Sometimes you may want to start with a full or a partial shingle at one end. In either case, you want to try to avoid small shingle pieces at the far end of the roof. To prevent this, divide the length of the roof by the length of a full shingle and assess how much of a shingle length you want to start with. Ideally you do not want to have pieces smaller than 12".

Use a Chalk Line

To ensure your shingle courses run straight use a chalk line. Measure the finished reveal on your shingles. Usually this is about 5 inches. Then make marks every 5 inches on the gable ends of the roof. Snap a chalk line between the gable ends at each pair of marks all the way up the roof. This will ensure that you shingles run true and straight as you progress up the roof with the courses.

Vertical lines should also be snapped every 3 to 6 feet to ensure your tabs maintain alignment.

Use of Roof Jacks

After 3 or 4 courses of shingles have been installed using ladders, roof jacks may be necessary to access the upper courses. Roof jacks are steel brackets that hold planks in position for you to stand on. The roof jacks should be securely nailed through the decking and into rafters to ensure that they will support your weight.

Shingling Valleys, Chimneys, Skylights and Dormers, and Step Flashing

Shingling the valleys and installing flashing requires extra care. The shingles, typically coming from two intersecting courses when entering a valley, need to overlap each other such that no water penetration occurs.

Skylights, chimneys and dormers must be step flashed (step flashing is interleaved with each course of shingles) to ensure water is kept from penetrating the roof.

Adding the Ridge Vent and Caps

To complete the roofing project, ridge vents need to be installed. These are nailed to the top of the ridge and then capped.

The ridge cap prevents water from entering the home via the ridge vent, while still allowing the house to breath. The ridge cap is constructed out of individual shingle tabs that have their unfinished corners cut off at 45 degree angles. Each modified shingle tab, is nailed such that it overlaps the previous piece as you work your way down the length of the ridge vent.

About The Author
Over the past 20+ years Mark Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. For more home improvement information visit http://www.homeadditionplus.com and http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com.

Say Goodbye to The Wooden Window Shutter

A discussion of the wooden window shutter plus definitions and descriptions of the many kind of inexpensive and low maintenance shutters on the market.

The traditional window shutter is usually made of wood, needs a lot of maintenance and looks like it is right out of an episode of the Brady Bunch. These window shutters that have been in existence since Colonial times are a bit of an anachronism. Most people simply never shut them yet still the hinges need to be oiled and shined.

It might be time to get rid of the anachronistic wooden shutters on your home and go with something more modern such an aluminum window shutter that resists the elements and never closes. This will definitely cut down on your replacement and maintenance costs for keeping the exterior of your home looking sharp!

Here is a run down of the different types of decorate window shutter that are offered by manufacturers today.

Vinyl window shutter - These easy to clean, affordable shuttles last about forty years! They give your house a traditional look without the traditional expense of replacing them frequently. They weigh next to nothing and look like the real thing. They are available in all of the traditional louvered, board and batten and raised panel styles. Even better they come primed and ready to paint in the color of your choice.

Composite window shutter - These shutters are like a thick particleboard that is made from a composite of weather and rot-resistant materials. They are made from molds that offer all kinds of styles including the louvered, board and batten and raised panel window shutter style. You can also find these types of shutters in a cupboard style (sometimes called the Bahama style) that is hinged at the top so you can open and close them just like the old fashioned wooden shutter.

Fiberglass Shutters - This type of window shutter is the most expensive but they do last about twenty years. They are also molded and offered in a variety of designs including the Bahama, louvered, board and battened and raised panel window shutter styles. The fiberglass window shutter is also stronger and more secure than other types and can be used to protect your windows during hurricanes and storms. Most manufacturers offer these in scores of colors and textures that mimic the look of the real thing. You can also buy these primed and paint them yourself to match your house's exterior design scheme.

Aluminum Shutters. The aluminum wood shutter is also offered in a variety of styles including the faux colonial louvered style and the Bahama style. These strong shutters are great protection for your windows, both in terms of an intruder and also against a hurricane. They come in about a thousand textures and colors. However the powder coated finish looks a little less authentic than other types of shutters and many companies also only offer a warranty of about three years on aluminum shutters.

Of course the crème de la crème will always be the traditional wood shutters, but unfortunately they are not as storm proof as the fiberglass or aluminum window shutter and the costs of protecting them from the elements are relatively sky high compare to other types.

About The Author
Rene Knops helps you get a clear view for choosing beautiful window blinds, shutters or window treatment at lowest prices. for Special Deals and more visit: http://www.ChoosingWindowBlinds.com.

Stairways: Working with Your Contractor

Your home beautiful is just around the corner. You've selected your architect and your general contractor, and soon tradespeople will be appearing at your doorstep to put in those much-needed renovations. Now, it's about speaking their language so you can answer questions intelligently and get the results you want.

One key area that takes special crafting is your stairway. You can keep an eye on how things are progressing if you know the basics of stairway construction.

Learning the Lingo

Like any craft, building stairways has its own jargon. Learn the most common terms here.

Tread: The part of the step that is stepped on.

Riser: The vertical portion of the step between steps.

Balustrade: Refers to the collection of newels, balusters and handrail on a staircase.

Handrail: The horizontal member of a balustrade system that sits on top of the balusters and is supported by newel posts.

Balusters: Vertical posts which help support the handrail and comprise an integral design element in the formation of the balustrade.

Newel Posts: Located at the bottom and top of a staircase, and positioned at turns and support positions for the balcony rail, these posts form the major support of the balustrade system.

Nosing: The portion of a tread or landing tread which protrudes beyond the face of the riser.

Bullnose: The wider, rounded portion of a first step of a stairway that is open on one or both sides.

Run: The horizontal distance measured by the entire stairway.

Stringers: A supporting structure which runs the length of the stairway and supports the treads, risers, and balustrade system.

Staying in Step with the Workers

Now that you know what the workers are talking about, you can also know what they're doing with the tips below.

1. Make sure the contractor has checked the local building codes. Building code requirements for stairs vary from town to town, and you want to be sure you're in compliance.

2. Confirm correct stairwell dimensions. You may see measurements on a blueprint, but it wouldn't hurt to check the numbers again when the workers aren't around. You don't have to say anything if they're right; if they need correcting, you've just saved yourself some money.

3. Follow standard rules of thumb: Check the charts as well for stair parameters. Stair rise should be no higher than 7-5/8 inches, and the stair tread no more narrow than 10 inches. You'll ensure there's no stumbling when guests are over.

4. Choosing the material: Use specially crafted parts, especially for the weight bearing parts such as stair treads. If any wood will be exposed, you'll want to find a grain that harmonizes with your taste and décor.

5. Fasteners and adhesives: Ask your contractor if they intend to "glue and screw," and not just provide one or the other. This extra connecting power will help keep the stairway from creaking.

6. Strength and noise: Once the stairway is built, take a few moments to run up and down it before any carpeting or staining takes place. Be sensitive to bounciness or squeaks. This is the one and only time they can be dealt with affordably.

It's your house, and your involvement helps ensure things are done right. And, you'll enjoy your new stairway all the more knowing what's gone into it.

About The Author
Shawn Capell is the cofounder of Stair Warehouse. Stair Warehouse specializes in beautiful American Cherry stair parts, ornamental contemporary and iron balusters and Newel Posts. Visit them today at http://Stairwarehouse.com to find Stair Treads at warehouse pricing!

Construction Site Safety Basics

Construction sites are extremely dangerous places to be in. Because of the kind of work involved, the construction workers face a very high risk of getting injured and are also prone to accidents. Moreover, the equipment that the workers wear to reduce the exposure to harmful chemicals and elements in itself can cause accidents because it tends to reduce their flexibility and restrict their movements. It is said that approximately two people die per week on construction sites across the country. Therefore it is very essential that people working on these kinds of sites follow some basic but important guidelines for their safety as well as the safety of others.

General Guidelines for Construction Site Safety

For reducing or preventing injuries and accidents at the construction site, you have to begin with removing the unsafe conditions that exist as well as reduce the number of unsafe acts that need to be performed. But it is not possible to completely eliminate any of these conditions, as many times it is not predictable. Site workers must be given adequate training on safety issues and must be made to understand how critical it is for each one of them to practice the safety guidelines during work. Steps must be taken in advance to ensure that accidents are prevented as much as possible and if any hazardous situation arises, immediate steps must be taken to combat the situation and make sure that it does not does recur.

Some of the areas where you can practice safety guidelines are as follows:

Safety Around Electrical Equipment

It is critical that all workers know the most danger prone areas before they start working. Since chances for getting electrical shocks are high, care must be taken to prevent it. It is essential for workers to wear rubber gloves and boots, which are insulated. Electrical wiring should not be strung across the work areas and water should not be allowed to accumulate and form puddles in these areas. It is good to treat all electrical equipment as energized until tested and found not to be so.

Scaling Equipment

Ladders should always be checked and maintained in good condition. If it is defective, it should be discarded immediately or marked such that no one will use it by mistake in the work place. The ladder rungs must be kept clean with no traces of oil and grease. Before use, they must be secured properly so that it does not get displaced while a worker is using it.

In a similar way, maintenance of scaffolding is also very important. Only under supervision must scaffolding be set up or dismantled. Fall protection should be provided at all times and employees should wear harnesses while working at heights.

Avoiding Falls

Ensure that debris is not left lying around in the construction site. Also, any equipment that is used during work should be careful stored away after use and not left as it is, as workers might trip or slip on this equipment. Safety harnesses should always be worn if a worker is working at a height, as this is one of the main reasons for death during construction. A person competent to assess the situation and see if any hazards exist should inspect all anchorage points on a regular basis.

Proper Lighting

Lighting is crucial when working inside a closed area, but especially working at night. The rate of construction site accidents skyrockets when working at night due to insufficient lighting. Proper lighting may include floodlights, barricade lights and especially lights on head gear.

Closed Spaces

And finally, when working in closed and confined spaces like pits and trenches, it is good to have one standby person who will have no other duties other than to watch the workers on the inside and act or rescue in case of emergencies.

By following these simple guidelines, life on a construction site can become safer and the risk of accidents can be reduced.

About The Author
Lydia Quinn writes for Brandon Safety Lights, a leading provider of barricade lights and accessories. Visit us at: http://www.brandonsafetylights.com/.

Brick and Stone Masonry: Still Stand Strong

The choices that you make when designing and building a new home or purchasing an existing home affect your value throughout the time of ownership. No time is the highest value more important than when selling. Each decision you make will affect value and play a role in what the house is ultimately worth in a re-sale. Make your choices carefully. Do your research. Talk to realtors about what is in demand in your area. A good example of a value choice is the use of brick and stone masonry for your exterior. In American architecture, nothing evokes feelings solidity and permanence like masonry.

Have you ever read through the classified home listings, or seen a realtor's flyer and read the words, "four sides brick?" There is a reason that real estate professionals market a home this way. It is a signal of quality to a potential buyer. While stucco and siding are both attractive options for cladding the exterior of your home, brick and stone masonry will increase the value. Upon arrival at a perspective new home, a buyer will usually begin assessing it from the minute that they turn into the driveway.

Stucco

When applied properly hard coat stucco can be an effective exterior cladding while also providing flexible design. When purchasing an existing stucco home, a buyer should have two thoughts in mind.

1. Is this house a hard coat stucco or EIFS? (a synthetic stucco system)

2. Will an inspector need to be hired to examine the condition of the exterior and locate any moisture behind the walls?

Already there are roadblocks in the buyers mind about purchasing the home. Both questions would need to be answered. You need to know what type of stucco it is, and a specialized, professional inspector is always a good idea no matter the type. A professional stucco inspector can determine where there are problems and check for moisture behind the material, while suggesting the extent of damage and remedies in a thorough report.

Siding

Siding tends to have fewer stigmas than stucco. While it does not have the solidness of brick, when installed correctly, it does an excellent job of protecting the interior of the home from moisture. Houses clad with siding seem to have a certain charm and appeal to Americans as it is used from coast to coast. With a siding home, again, it is a good idea to have a thorough inspection to uncover any moisture that has found a path into the interior. A proper inspection will reveal if the siding was installed correctly. Make sure your inspector examines the following areas of a siding clad home where there may be problems.

1. The seams at door and window openings

2. Around vents, such as a dryer vent, and pipes that must pass through to the interior

3. Any area where siding might meets the ground

4. The connection of a siding clad chimney to the house structure

5. Areas where landscaping touches the home

Also, it is a good idea to determine the type of siding... There are several types in use today: wood, cement fiber board and vinyl. Wood siding is beautiful, but will ultimately require maintenance due to exposure to the elements. You will eventually need to replace boards, nails and frequently paint to keep it in the best condition. Cement fiber board is an excellent choice. It is very durable, emulates the look of wood, but will stand the test of time. The advantage of vinyl siding is the ease of maintenance. When properly installed, vinyl siding will only require cleansing from season to season with a mild solution and water to keep it looking new.

Brick and Stone Masonry

Brick and stone masonry has stood the test of time in our culture. While wood sided homes have come and gone over the decades, we know that homes in the Northeastern United States built at our country's inception are still standing today. Brick and stone products inspire a feeling of solidity and permanence. There are very few problems associated with brick or stone. They protect the interior of your home like a fortress, withstand the elements and bring great resale value as it passes confidence along from one owner to the next.

When you have a masonry home inspected, make sure note is taken of any cracks that have appeared in the mortar, which might be the result of settling or another stress on the wall. Check the system of weep holes which are used to drain moisture from behind the walls. Make sure these holes are not obstructed. Additionally, check ground level areas where weep holes could actually perform the reverse function and take moisture in during flooding rains.

Fortunately brick and stone masonry, for the most part, are maintenance free, durable, and a value addition to any home. Today there are many choices in masonry and a visit to a local brick and stone company will make selecting a color and style a breeze. Many have small mock ups of what a wall would look like in each product that they sell. One of the most fun ways to select your new brick or stone is to take a drive around neighborhoods you like and focus on brick colors and the shapes and variation in the stonework. This way you would better be able to envision what the exterior of your finished home might look like.

Whatever the material you choose for the exterior of your home, installation is the key component. Take the time to ensure all proper procedures are followed for the specific material. When buying an existing home, hire an inspector! No question you might have about the exterior cladding of a home is a bad one. You are protecting a very large investment.

About The Author
Dalton C. Reynolds is a contributing writer for http://www.atlantadesigndirectory.com and renovates homes for clients in the greater Atlanta, GA area. Copyright © 2006 Dalton C. Reynolds.

Remodeling Your Home On A Budget

If you've lived in your home any length of time, you probably have considered doing some remodeling. In fact, the National Association of Home Builders estimates that we will spend nearly $240 billion over the next year in remodeling projects. That's a lot of paint (not to mention nails, screws, plywood, tile, etc.)!

A recent article published in PARADE suggested 5 quick, easy, and cheap ideas for giving your house that look of a major remodeling:

1. Add a new backsplash in the kitchen. This can make you kitchen have a new look for a minimum investment.

2. Add glass in the bathroom. It creates a look of more space by opening up the tub/shower area.

3. Go outside. A new barbecue grill can liven up the forgotten square footage of your home.

4. Add or change lighting. A lighting professional can give some great ideas here.

5. Make-over you closets. Lots of kits and ideas are available at your local retailer.

These are just a few of the many ideas which you can implement to give your home a remodeled look. By taking the time to visit a few of the local retailers (box stores and specialty stores), you can come up with some great ideas. Also, a visit to your local home show is a great source for generating ideas. And, more ideas can be found at http://www.fhhome.com.

If you are considering selling your home, a minor remodeling job can be a great investment. While doing a major remodel might get you a small increase in your selling price, you definitely will get better value from a small job than from a major remodel. Remember, just because you like a peach colored paint in the kitchen, does not mean a prospective buyer will. If you do paint or add something else with color, stick with neutral tones and smaller jobs. You will get more bang for you buck.

Naturally, doing the project yourself will save additional money. If you or someone in your household has the time, energy and talent to tackle the job, great. If you need additional tools (tile cutters, paint sprayers, etc.) be sure to check with your local store which may have tools and equipment to rent. Some of these outlets also offer seminars and classes which can be very helpful in giving you the confidence to tackle your project yourself.

But if you are not a do-it-your-self type of person, consider hiring a contractor who specializes in small jobs. A good contractor can also be a great source for new ideas. Enjoy your newly remodeled home!

About The Author
Yvonne Volante, the author, is a big fan of home projects and writes for http://fhhome.com, which is the premier home resource on the internet. You can see all of the articles over at http://www.fhhome.com.

The Impending Affordability Crunch for Log Homes

The very idea of living in a log cabin conjures up all sorts of feelings and sentimental romance. The log cabin home is as ingrained in our culture as Apple Pie and baseball but is the viability of this mainstay of rural living on the verge of disappearing. Some may think that it is not, that the log home will always be an affordable and viable home choice for those looking to return to their roots; but I think that the log building industry is in for some rough road in the coming years.

One only has to look at the dramatic increase in the cost of building materials and the scarcity of skilled labour in the wake of recent events both natural and man-made to get a sense of the coming crunch in the log building industry as a whole. The cost of plywood, for example, has risen nearly twenty percent in the last year adding dramatically to the cost of a new home. General contractors and homeowners alike are getting caught in the squeeze as prices for materials skyrocket during the course of construction making it necessary for charge backs and change orders. This volatility in the building materials market directly influences the log home building industry as they must compete with the lumber producers for the same raw logs from which they build their log cabins with.

The typical log home producer must buy its logs on a project by project basis so as not to tie up scarce resources in carrying an inventory of logs. Given this, the producer must go to the market to purchase logs at market price and thus must compete with the large mills for the same high grade logs. Practically speaking, his means that the log builder must in fact pay a premium for its logs because their quantity of wood fiber purchased does not afford them the same economies of scale as the large mills. So in the end the log builder can pay as much as double for the same logs as the large mill. The log builder of course cannot absorb all this cost so it must pass this cost along to the consumer who ultimately will bear the brunt of this volatility.

If the premium for logs wasn't enough for the log builder to contemplate; add in the scarcity of skilled labour and it is clear to see why the price of log cabin construction is on the increase. There was a time when building a log cabin was simple because you were doing it your self probably and if you made a mistake then – oh well you could live with it. But today in our overly litigious society where every consumer expects nothing but the finest quality at all price points the pressure on the builder to do quality work is immense. A typical log builder will require four to five years of hands-on experience under the direction of a journeyman log smith to be able to work independently. During this training time the apprentice will be exposed to all sorts of different scenarios and situations and must develop his problem solving skills in order to achieve competency. The problem face by most log home companies is that the craft of log home building is not as glamorous as a University Degree or a Tradesman Qualification so they have a hard time attracting quality employees due to the stiff competition from the other trades and professions. The only way the log home producer can compete is to increase the wage scale in the hopes of retaining quality personnel

What does all this mean for the log home building industry? It means that their cost of raw materials is steadily increasing as they are getting squeezed out by the large mills and producers for the raw materials they need to build their homes. This coupled with the scarcity of skilled labour means that the log home producer must raise his prices to be able to stay profitable. This increase in prices then puts the affordability and feasibility of a log cabin out of reach of the average person and thus thins the market for the producer. Under these kinds of conditions the producer may at first lower his prices to close more sales but this is not a long term solution because the producer's profit margin is slowly eroded as the cost of materials and labour steadily rises but the price point does not. In the end if the consumer does not accept the higher prices but instead chooses a different style of construction the log home building industry will experience a sharp decline until the costs of inputs normalizes and the viability of the business is certain.

About The Author
Darwin Forcier
Log Home Builder for 15 years and owner of Coast Mountain Log Homes
www.coastmountainloghomes.com

Custom Log Home Design Ideas

Custom log home design ideas can be used to help create the dream log home you've always wanted. Perhaps you have some custom log home design ideas on paper as you've been collecting design ideas. That's a great way to plan and organize your ideas, by making a scrapbook of the things you may want in your log home design. Here are some tips for custom designing your log home:

1. Explore and Select Your Log Home Style - select the log home style that you really want and like, a style that excites you. Will you prefer the manufactured or handcrafted log home style? Manufactured log homes are made with logs that are milled into a desired shape, producing uniform logs without taper. The logs used generally range in length from 10 to 18 feet.

A custom log home design using manufactured logs can vary considerably in shape and appearance because the logs have different shapes and there are different corner styles. You can obtain kits ranging from just the logs and fasteners to more complete systems that include the roofing materials, doors, windows and even more.

A handcrafted custom log home design means handcrafters will strip the bark off of whole logs. Using special skills and tools, the handcrafter will fit each log into place. Handcrafted custom log home design and construction is labor intensive, and the construction process takes longer and usually costs more since so much work is done manually. This method attempts to preserve the natural shape of the tree, and each log is carefully trimmed and shaped for a specific location in the log shell. The logs may be assembled at the company's yard, the pieces are numbered, taken apart and shipped to the homesite to be reassembled.

2. Visualize Home Traffic Flow - a good way to create a custom log home design is to take floorplans you like and pretend you're coming home, entering and moving around in the home. Come in the front door - where will you place your coat? What do you see in front of you as you enter? Which way to the kitchen and pantry if you are carrying groceries? Visualize sitting in the living room or family room. Will you be entertaining guests? Is having a fireplace high on your list of priorities? Try to note where the bathroom or bathrooms are located. As you finish your shower, where are the towels hanging?

Another helpful exercise when visualizing custom log home design is to examine the things that you like about where you live now. What things would you like to keep and what are things you'd like to change and have in your new home? For example, perhaps you'll want a much larger kitchen. Pay special attention to the kitchen work triangle - the distance between the sink, refrigerator and range or cooktop. Each one of these areas becomes a focal point in the kitchen and forms the three points of a triangle with different distances between them. Done correctly, proper custom log home design in the kitchen gives you the most efficient food preparation area layout. Walk through each room of the floorplan and see how the room feels and functions and how its location seems in relation to other roms.

3. Plan Your Home Orientation and Layout - when creating a custom log home design, pay attention to your site and how the orientation of individual rooms will be done. Locate the bedrooms towards the cooler, nighttime north. Place your kitchen facing the east to catch the early morning sun. The living room and recreational room can have a kind of transitional orientation, facing the warm noon south sun. And the dining area can be oriented towards the late afternoon western sun. Natural light, window placement, orientation and views are powerful positive factors in human health and the comfort of your new home.

A great way to learn custom log home design ideas is to view log home plans that have been successfully built already. Use the speed of the internet to view plans, plans that you enjoy. Every plan that you review can give you custom log home design ideas that you had not thought of. Instead of trying to create brand new plans from scratch, you can save considerable time and money if you can find great plans that have already been built successfully somewhere. This means the plans will work. Just be sure the plans service can make the changes to the plans so they become exactly what you want. That way, you really can create the custom log home design that will provide you many years of enjoyment.

About The Author
David Buster is VP of InfoSearch Publishing and webmaster of this popular log home website.
Learn more about log home design, fireplace design, cabin rentals and finding a log home plan just right for you at http://www.yourdreamloghome.com.

What Exactly Is Crown Molding?

By definition, a molding is an ornamental piece of wood, metal, or plaster, used to decorate or outline something. It can be used on the interior or exterior of a home. Moldings frame walls, ceilings, windows, and door openings. Examples of moldings used to decorate with are baseboards, crown molding, and chair rails. Today, I want to talk exclusively about crown molding as a decorative architectural choice.

Crown molding, also referred to as crown moulding, or cornice, is probably the most important architectural accent used to detail any interior space. Most interior designers today would agree that every room can be improved with the use of crown molding. Crown molding smoothes the transition from the wall to the ceiling and does a wonderful job of defining the architectural style of a room. The size and style of crown molding used may vary widely, from a simple cove in a farmhouse kitchen to a large built-up cornice in a grand entry.

The initial use of a cornice in building design is anyone's guess. By the time the ancient Greeks had gained power, rules had already been created to define the use and design of crown molding. Originally, it was used as a structural element to help support the weight of the roof. It also served to keep water away from the building, thus protecting the lower walls and the foundation. However, the use of cornice as a decorative element was not considered any less important than it's more utilitarian functions. Most of the ornamental design patterns that you see on today's crown molding originated from the ancient Greeks. Egg and dart, dentil and acanthus leaf are the most obvious examples and these were used extensively in ancient times by both the Greeks and the Romans.

With the rebirth of the arts in the Renaissance period came a renewed interest in classical architecture as well. The rules of the classical orders were applied to the interior decoration of rooms. These were the rules of "3". A column, the basis of classical architecture, is divided into 3 parts: base, shaft and capital. The base and the capital were then further divided into 3 parts and prescribed rules applied to the relationship and the proportion of these divisions as well. The same divisions that apply to a column are also applied to the wall. The wall is divided into the baseboard, the wall and a crown molding. The lower wall can be further divided into the base, dado and chair rail. Finally, the upper wall is divided into the picture molding, frieze and crown molding.

When beginning any decorative project to include several types of molding, it is recommended that you choose the style and size of crown molding first, as it is the most prominently displayed. Then select the rest of the moldings to match. Regarding the proper sizing of the crown molding, advice is abundant and many guidelines have been written. Most often the advice directs you to select the size of the crown molding based on the height of your ceiling. This may be a common approach to this aspect of the design process, though, as larger crown moldings have often been used to impressively decorate rooms of more modest proportions. What IS important is to properly scale the casings and other moldings to the size of the crown molding that you wish to use. When choosing crown molding for your interior, feel free to select the size and style that YOU like. Historically, larger crown moldings were more frequently used than what is recommended today by many interior designers. Change is anticipated as the current architectural renaissance continues and more designers and homeowners endeavor to add warmth to their homes and to personalize their interiors. So have a go at it and don't be intimidated . You are limited only by your imagination.

About The Author
Patricia Tomaskovic is the President of http://www.goceilingmedallion.com Copyright 2006. Visit us soon and let us help you decorate with style. We look forward to serving you.
info@goceilingmedallion.com

10 Things You Must Know When Building or Renovating

There are many sad cases of home renovations not going as planned - often going way over budget or schedule, or unforseen complications popping up unexpectedly and ruining even up to years of work.

Most of these situations would never have gone so awry with some careful planning and early decision making sooner in the renovation process. Below are a few issues that it is vital to think about before you begin your home renovation.

10 Things to Think About BEFORE Beginning Work

Prepare a budget
Be aware of council regulations
Find a tradesperson
Know your start and completion dates
Selecting Products
Prepare plans
Purchasing products
What should I purchase myself?
What services are available to my property?
What sort of hot water unit do I need?

Prepare a budget

Before you start shopping for your new bathroom or kitchen you must know your spending limits. Whether you are getting a loan or paying cash, you need to work out how much your project is going to cost. Some businesses also offer finance solutions for approved customers.

Be aware of council regulations

Find out all the information you can before you arrange tradesperson. If your home is heritage listed you will need to meet strict council regulations. Many renovations must be approved by the council before work can commence. Contact your local council for more details.

Finding a tradesperson

Speak with family and friends who have done renovations or built a home. It is important to find a tradesperson that you can communicate with. Make sure you understand everything they are telling you. Book a tradesperson well ahead of time, as they can be booked for months in advance. Ensure that your tradesperson is licensed. Your product warranties are only valid if installed by a licensed tradesperson. In Australia, Trades@call provide professional, reliable tradespeople for most jobs, and all workmanship is guaranteed.

Know your start and completion dates

Communicate with your tradesperson and come to an agreement of realistic start and completion dates for your project. If you have a specific date that the job must be finished by, for example you have relatives coming to stay, let your tradesperson know. Keep in mind that unexpected problems can hold up your project, no matter how well you have planned it.

Selecting Products

It may take a few shopping trips for you to decide on the products that give you the look you desire and are also practical for your needs. Browse through a print or online catalogue. Once you have decided on a style (modern, heritage or easy living) this will narrow down your product choices. Be aware of any size restrictions of the room. Print out or write down product specifications and measure up your bathroom. You may use the online bathroom planner at the Bourne Bathroom and Kitchen Centre website to layout the products you have chosen.

Talk to your tradesperson about your choices. If the tradesperson tells you that a product you have chosen is unsuitable, find out why. It may just be that extra work is required that they don't want to do. Remember, it is your home and you need to be satisfied once the job is complete.

Prepare plans

It is important that you draw up plans of your bathroom or kitchen. Discuss the plans with your tradesperson. Let him know what sort of products you would like, so he will know what work needs to be done. For example if you have chosen an inwall cistern, the tradesperson will need to know so he can set up the plumbing correctly before the tiling is done. It is best to have specifications of all of the products you have chosen so the tradesperson knows exactly what work is required.

Purchasing products

When selecting products, find out how long it will take for delivery. Some goods such as tapware and toilets will be in stock, while others such as spas and vanity units are custom made and can take up to 1 month to order in. Often these custom made products are non-refundable so confirm your product choices with your tradesperson before ordering. Find out from your tradesperson which products they will required first. Generally, the first products needed are the shower base, bath or spa and mixers if they are being installed on the wall.

As an owner builder, what should I purchase myself?

If you are owner building, make sure you purchase all of the main products for your bathroom, kitchen and laundry. This will ensure that you make all of the decisions and achieve the result you want. There will be things you will not think about when placing an order, such as different handle types on a vanity unit, the pump position of your spa, that you will need to decide on. It is important to make these decisions yourself as they will affect the overall result of your project. Smaller fittings for plumbing can be purchased by your tradesperson.

What services are available to my property?

It is important to know whether you need gas or electric appliances (hot water unit, cooking appliances). If you live further out from the city, you may need LPG appliances. If you currently have electric appliances and you want to change to gas, speak with your tradesperson to determine if this is going to be cost effective and worthwhile in the long run. If you are building a new home, decide on the appliances you want before building begins, as the plumbing will need to be roughed in based on your product selection.

What sort of Hot Water Unit do I need?

There is a wide range of hot water units available and it can be quite daunting to try and choose one. If you are replacing an existing unit your choices can be limited, so speak with your tradesperson. The instantaneous hot water units are popular at the moment, but they use a larger gas line than the standard storage units. This can mean major plumbing changes which can be quite costly, though in the long run the instantaneous systems are cost efficient. See the Bourne Hot Water Selection Guide for more detail.

Many of these points seem somewhat obvious, but the problem arises when you start taking things for granted. When you don't make sure that all your bases are covered, you may find that you have invested a lot of time, effort and money in a home renovation that you may end up unhappy with.

About The Author
Richard Bourne is owner and manager of Bourne Bathroom and Kitchen Centres. Bourne Bathroom and Kitchen Centres (www.bournebathrooms.com.au) offer the largest range of bathroom, kitchen and plumbing supplies in Melbourne. Bourne's exhaustive selection of home renovation supplies and great after sales service have helped thousands of people to buy "beautiful products at beautiful prices" since 1992.
nathan@technologymatters.com.au

The Only Way To Hire A Contractor

Everywhere you go everybody always gives you the same advice on how to choose a contractor. They simply say get three estimates, and call the Better Business Bureau. There is a much better way to hire a contractor to ensure you get what you want; a quality job at a fair price. Don't get three estimates.

Basically most people including contractors are fair and honest. They want to perform a service for you and get paid so they can provide for their family just as you need to provide for yours. Why everybody assumes and implies that contractors in general are swindlers simply isn't fair or correct.

You may hear on the news that a homeowner lost a substantial amount of money from a corrupt contractor. What you don't hear about is the other thousands of contractors providing good quality work on a daily basis.

The advice of getting three estimates for every job is bad advice. What most people will do when they get three estimates is to naturally choose the lowest bid. A few are enlightened and will choose the average bid, versus the highest or the lowest. But either way, having three contractors come do a free estimate for you leads to bad service for everybody.

A contractors time is very valuable just as yours is. Now when you get an estimate and inform this contractor that you are going to get three bids, you are implying that his ethics may be lacking, which isn't very nice. You have also put a lot of pressure on him because he needs the work to feed his family and keep his employees working. Naturally he is going to give you the lowest bid he can to ensure he gets the job. In turn the other two contractors that follow him are going to need the job also. So depending on how desperate they are for work will depend how low they will bid to get this job. This constant form of playing cutthroat with their competitors leads them to underbid jobs just so they have work.

After they lose money on a job they are even more desperate to get the next job. What this does is leads contractors into financial problems and it leads to bad service, not being able to do the job correctly and a lot of stress for them. This can cause even a man with the sturdiest ethics to lose his footing. He will want to perform a quality job as agreed but when he doesn't have any money to pay his employees or to buy materials he simply can't do it.

If everybody always has three free estimates performed then it takes the contractors away from supervising their employees on your job site. You made a contract with him, and he is whom you will want to communicate with during the job. If he is off giving free estimates and not able to watch his employees, the quality of the job may suffer. In addition if an employee gets hurt, a water pipe breaks, or they run out of supplies the job will stop right there. All in all, insisting on three estimates does everybody a disservice and leads to unhappy people, including you.

Somehow people get the idea that contractors make a lot of money. I was a contractor and I know that is not correct. It is a very competitive business and it isn't hard to lose a substantial amount of money very quickly.

The best way to hire a contractor is via word of mouth. If you need some work done and you see a contractors sign in a yard, stop and talk to him. Look at his project, the safety measures, his employees, the quality of his tools and the quality of his work. Talk to the owner and see if he is pleased with the work. Call the Better Business Bureau and ask about this contractor. The BBB can be circumvented because they register contractors by their phone number. With cell phones, unethical contractors can change their business name, get a new cell phone number and place a new ad in the newspaper. So check to see if their phone number is a home phone number or a cell phone. It is always better to locate a contractor in the phone book, if you don't go by word of mouth.

Once you have located a contractor that you deem does the quality work you want done, ask for an estimate. Tell him you would like the estimate to be itemized with the materials and labor separate.

A good rule of thumb for estimates is that the labor will be double the amount of materials. A smaller job will be more for labor.

When he brings a contract ask him to also bring his insurance binder that certifies he has current liability insurance. If he requires a down payment inform him that you would prefer to make the first payment after a fair amount of work has been done. If he has a problem with that and indicates any sign of financial trouble you may want to rethink your choice. Before you sign the contract get a verbal or written agreement from him that he will be on site during the job.

If you take these steps your experience with a contractor will be pleasant. Do your part and recommend the good contractor to your friends. Never get three free estimates. This same advice to protect you against consumer fraud is the cause of the problem.

About The Author
Dale B. Adams
The Author and Self Publisher; Dale B. Adams of Majestic Publishers just released the new book, "Care Giving Made Easy - How to be an Awesome Caregiver," It was designed to assist America during the massive transition of our growing elderly population.
majesticpublishers.com
info@majesticpublishers.com

A Guide To Window Hardware

A variety of materials are available in window hardware. You have several options in terms of energy efficiency and design. Your personal preference, the climate and the style of your home will help you choose the right material for your house.

Types of Window Hardware

Wood

Wood has been the most common material used in window construction for generations. Wood is the easiest material to work with, either for a professional or a homeowner doing a DIY home improvement project. This material is most often used in custom work and intricately detailed designs. You have a wide range of options for painting and staining to fit every decorating need. This material is also very good in terms of energy efficiency.

The only downside of using wood is the maintenance needed. You will need to re paint or stain often. The peeling not only looks terrible, but will cause the wood to rot, if not maintained properly over the years. With good, regular maintenance, wood windows will last a long time.

Steel

Steel is most often found in older homes and basement windows. It is rarely used in newer homes because it is not very energy efficient. The heat from your home can easily escape through the frame of these windows. In addition, regular maintenance is needed. You must repaint steel regularly, or it will rust. Steel is a very durable material and is still used in hurricane storm shutters.

Aluminium

Aluminium is nearly as durable as steel. However, like steel, it is not very energy efficient and allows significant heat loss. This material does have one benefit over steel. It doesn't require the frequent maintenance. The color of aluminium is baked on and a variety of colors are available. Repainting is not necessary.

Vinyl

Vinyl is an inexpensive and durable material for windows. In addition, vinyl is fairly energy efficient. In addition, vinyl windows are maintenance free. They don't need to be painted. Vinyl is colored straight through, so you won't ever see chips, scratches or peeling. A variety of colors are available to match your home's decoration.

The biggest problem with vinyl is that it can look cheap. There are vinyl products that are made to look like wood, but the effect isn't very good. They still have a plastic look.

Fibreglass

Fibreglass is a fairly new material for window construction. It is very durable and energy efficient. When insulated properly, it is one of the best in terms of energy efficiency. There is little heat loss with well insulated fibreglass windows. You will pay for this efficiency. These windows are among the most expensive.

Things to Consider When Choosing Window Hardware

Consider the climate where you live. If you live in a hot climate, you want to keep the heat out and the cold air in your home. Look for windows with a lower U value.

If you live in a colder climate, you want just the opposite: to keep the cold out and heat in. Heat loss is a major problem in cold climates and you'll want to prevent this both through the frame and the glass. Choose energy efficient material and insulate it well. Consider insulated glass, which adds to the energy efficiency of the window. These products contain two layers of glass with argon gas in between the layers.

When replacing windows, consider the design of your home. You want the windows to match the architectural elements of your home. Make sure the material you choose fits in with the time period of your home. You won't want wood, Colonial style windows on a modern Contemporary home.

About The Author
Charles Mahoney reveals many news to http://www.replacement-windows-tips.com an web site for information. The author is specializing in tips on window hardware ( http://www.replacement-windows-tips.com/window-hardware.html ).

Soundproofing a condo or apartment from upstairs neighbors.

How do I soundproof my condo or apartment from my noisy neighbors upstairs?

This is by far the most asked question I hear on a daily basis. It is a question asked by prominent architects, engineers, major developers, and contractors. We are now finding that this is also of major concern of individual homeowners who rent part of their house to tenants. Many factors need to be considered when assessing an upstairs noise issue. The first question you should ask is simply this, is the problem impact noise, or airborne noise (TV's, Stereos, telephones etc.) coming down from above. Nine times out of ten, impact noise is the main concern.

What is impact noise?

It is the noise caused by people or animals walking across the floor above (generally hardwood). This type of noise is considered to be structure borne noise and is one of the most difficult noises there is to soundproof from. Impact noise is basically sound that travels directly through the joisting structure from the floor above, directly into the hard mounted ceiling below. Another term for this is known as "foot fall "noise. Impact noise travels through the floor joists structure at speeds of over 1200 times greater than the transmission of sound traveling through ambient air. Keep in mind that most home joist systems as well as studded walls are generally 16 inches on center, so not only do you get the speed of the impact noise shooting downward, but the perfectly spaced joists act as tuning forks thus causing the sound to sustain (last longer) compounding the impact problem. The best and most effective way to stop impact noise from above is to isolate the joist structure and the floor above (which is generally hardwood) from the ceiling below. This can be accomplished in a variety of ways. The most common is to float (suspend on acoustical sound clips or resilient channels) the ceiling using either resilient isolation clips and furring channels (hat channel) or the most common method of floating, RC-1 (resilient channel). The good, the bad, and the ugly of both these methods will be discussed in depth. First we have the industry standard, which is RC-1 or resilient channel. This is a flanged Z channel (generally with only one flange that attaches to the joist) and a larger flange to support the floated drywall ceiling. RC-1 can be purchased from a drywall supply company, or a contractors supply house. The resilient channels are usually attached perpendicular to the joists and the rows are evenly spaced approximately 2' to 3' apart. The longer flange (of resilient channels) in a ceiling application will all face the same direction to obtain maximum resilience in the new ceiling assembly. Remember, that the longer flange is the one the drywall screws into. Always use screws when you drywall, never use nails. Once the RC-1 is properly installed across the entire ceiling, you are ready to drywall. The new drywall will be screwed directly through the drywall and into the resilient channel's (longer) 1" flange. You will use 1 to 1½" self-tapping drywall screws or in rare cases, sheet metal screws. If the resilient (floated ceiling) is installed as per manufacturers instructions, there will be approximately a ¼" gap around the entire perimeter of the new floated ceiling. The floated ceiling must never make direct contact with the adjoining walls. This is NOT negotiable folks. The ¼" gap is then filled with an acoustical caulking, (OSI 175 is a good caulk for this application) and then finally the new ceiling will be taped, mudded, and painted just like a like a hard attached joist mounted drywall installation. The caulk is the interface between the resilient ceiling and the adjoining walls. There you have it, the common mans floated ceiling.

Now if you are really serious about soundproofing your ceiling, you have the sound clip and furring channel method of floating. This installation is quite similar to the RC-1 installation, however, the sound clips system will more than double the soundproofing and impact isolation protection of a perfectly installed RC-1 system. Basically you will need one sound clip for every 4 sq ft of ceiling area. For example, if your ceiling is 400 sq. ft. total, you will need 100 sound clips to complete the installation. Check with the manufacturers installations instructions for more detailed installation information. Once you have the sound clips screwed to the joists, you will then snap in the furring channel. We haven't talked much about metal furring channels or "hat" channel, as they are commonly called, so let me briefly describe this material. Furring channel, or hat channel is a galvanized steel channel that is 7/8" in height and measures 2 3/8" from flange to flange. When using furring channels in conjunction with sound clips, you always want to purchase the 25 gauge channels as opposed to the 20 gauge, which is too stiff for this application. The furring channel will be compressed by hand and will snap perfectly into the joist mounted sound clips. The channel rows will be spaced from 2' to 3' apart (check installation instructions). The first row will begin about 4" from the adjoining wall and then each row will be spaced from 2' to 3' apart. Now comes the fun part! You will screw the new drywall directly into the furring channel, keeping the screw as close to the center of the hat channel as possible. If the drywall meets directly in the middle of a channel, make sure to stagger the screws down the length of the drywalls (alternate them one each side of the seam). Now, just like with the RC-1 installation, you must maintain a ¼" gap around the perimeter of the newly floated ceiling assembly where the drywall does not touch the adjoining walls. Once again, this area will be sealed with the OSI-175 acoustical caulking material, and you will tape, mud, and paint the ceiling as usual. There you have it folks, professional sound isolation at a fraction of the cost that the "Big Boys" charge. A good analogy of the floated ceiling method is to visualize your ceiling as being like a trampoline. The new ceiling must not contact the adjoining walls and thus it is free to do its resilient thing exclusively. Keep in mind that the impact isolation is accomplished at the sound clip and joist connection where there is a thick neoprene rubber grommet on the clip that breaks the circuit between the sub floor above and the newly floated ceiling.

Lastly, if you are able to float 2 layers of drywall on the sound clips, it is recommended that you use Green Glue sound dampening compound between the 2 layers of drywall. I hope this article has been informative and gives you hope that you can indeed soundproof you apartment or condo from those stomping neighbors upstairs.

About The Author
Robert W. Orther
Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority on Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner,
The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
Website: http://www.soundproofingamerica.com

How To Choose a Storage Shed

If you own a house, at some point the need for extra storage space soon becomes evident. Arguably the most common solution is to purchase a storage shed. There are hundreds of styles and options available, but taking the time review these 5 key steps will enable you to make a smarter decision.

1. What is the primary function of the shed? In most cases, storage space is the key requirement, so figure out how much space is needed. A small 4' x 8' lean-to style provides sufficient space for small tools, but larger items do require more space. I strongly recommend choosing the largest size that you can afford, which still blends in with your landscape. Remember that most municipalities require building permits for any building over 100 sq. ft.

2. Is the shed going to play a prominent role in your day to day activities? If so, make sure that you choose a style and options that give you good access and provide adequate lighting. Windows and skylights provide plenty of natural light, but it is common to run electricity to the shed. For easy access, make sure that the doors are at least 34" wide, as most lawn mowers will easily pass through.

3. How important is the look of the shed to my property. Remember that anything you erect will either add or impair on your property value. Metal and vinyl are the least expensive options, but these tend to look ordinary. Wood and pre-finished sidings normally add character and value, but are usually more expensive.

4. Consider the grade and accessibility of the location. A level site is the starting point for all shed construction The greater the grade, the more work needs to be done. Typically a grade of 6" or less over the dimension of the shed can be compensated for by using patio stones, especially for smaller units. In areas faced with frost upheaval or poor drainage, it is recommend that at least 6" of topsoil be removed and filled with screening stone (1/2" or smaller gravel is also acceptable).

5. Be considerate to your neighbors! Don't put up something that belongs in a junkyard beside your neighbor's manicured backyard. Most municipalities require that storage sheds be 2 ft from the fence or property line, so be sure to check ahead of time to avoid any aggravation. Talk to your neighbors about your intentions – 99% of the time they will appreciate your concern and be very supportive of your project.

The internet is an excellent source for information on the hundreds of suppliers and styles available. If ordering online be sure to read the warranty and returns information carefully as often goods of this nature cannot be returned. Just because a company has a fancy website it does not mean it stands behind its product – try searching for articles or information on the particular company. Most companies offer either pre-cut or pre-fabricated kits delivered to your residence. If choosing a fully installed product, deal with a local company with a fixed location (avoid the ones that set-up at seasonal locations), and again be prudent with your research. I strongly recommend avoiding companies that require more than a 30% deposit – you'll end up waiting longer than you should. A storage shed is an important purchase – a little research will go a long way in helping making the right decision.

About The Author
Vic Maia is currently the owner and operator of Garden Shed & Gazebos. English Garden is a family-owned business that has been designing and building Garden Sheds, Gazebos, Cabanas and Bunkies for over 30 years. We are dedicated to providing personalized customer service.

Hiring An Home Improvement Trade Online

Have you ever tried to hire any type of construction trade over the last 5 years? If so you know that it's next to impossible unless you are some billionaire developer with his own T.V. show. The simple fact is that trades are just like any other business and follow the money. There is nothing wrong with the trades trying to please their biggest customer or taking care of customers that they expect will continue to build once the housing boom is over. In fact if you want a major non-essential renovation on your home, you may want to consider waiting until the housing boom slows down.

Very simply all reputable housing trades want to earn the most amount of money they can while the housing boom lasts. Again nothing wrong with this. Ask yourself what you would do in their shoes? or their boots.

What if you need housework done now?

Here are some quick money saving tips

1. Consider hiring a general contractor vs. doing it yourself. The idea is that a general contractor will have a full time loyal crew working for him. Often he is able to pay his crew less in return for steady work. So by hiring a contractor its often cheaper that trying to hire the trades yourself individually.

2. Pair your needs up with a friend and offer the trade both jobs. DO NOT, I repeat do not insult the trade with an offer like "if you do a good job on my house I will recommend you to many others". When I first started in business I believed this empty promise and never end getting one lead from anyone who said this. Now as a seasoned business person I would just answer that for every new paying customer they bring me I will deduct X amount off their bill.

3. Due Diligence—there are lots of way to find new contractors and trades. Try looking online or searching a home improvement directory

About The Author
Kris Koonar is President of Crack Marketing leading a team of Internet Marketing Consultants with over 5 years of experience and 100's of projects. He is also writer of an Internet Marketing Course called "The Website MBA"
crackmarketing.com
Kris can be contacted at 1.877.270.7170 or kris@crackmarketing.com

Tool Trends: Laser Levels

You may have heard of laser levels and wondered how much of an improvement they are over traditional hand sighting levels and if you are one of the people whose life could be made easier by purchasing one. Here are some basic facts to get you started.

While there are several types of laser levels, the basic idea is that the tool emits a laser line that is straight and level, with a few advantages over hand sighting levels. One advantage is the length of the line. The line projected by laser levels can reach 15-60 feet or more, whereas most levels that the casual user will have on hand will be six feet long at the most. That means you would normally have to repeatedly shift the level along the wall and make more markings to maintain a continuous line. In addition, that line has to be marked, and presumably, that means at some point it will probably need to be erased, painted over, or otherwise removed. Another advantage is that some models adhere to vertical surfaces, such as walls, so you can attach them and move on with your project with your hands free. For the average weekend do-it-yourselfer, these can be useful with projects like hanging pictures or shelves. If you're a little more ambitious, you may want a laser level that emits two lines, perpendicular to one another. These are really handy for jobs like laying tile and installing cabinets.

What are the downsides to a laser level? For one thing, they run on batteries, so they can run out of power at inopportune times. Also, laser beams can be very harmful to your vision – you should never look directly into one – so their strength is regulated. Laser levels use a low strength laser beam. What that means when you are working with a laser level is that they may be difficult to see and are not usually able to be used outdoors. You can purchase laser glasses that help to filter out other light besides your laser beam, but you will also need to weigh that additional cost if it is an option you choose. Laser glasses will allow you to see your laser line more clearly in bright light and over longer distances.

From a cost perspective, laser levels can be quite cost effective and actually cost about the same as high quality hand sighting levels.

About The Author
Cathy Peterson writes about http://www.powertoolsmall.com/, http://www.homeappliancesonsale.com/Categories/Air%20Conditioners.html and http://www.SimplyBestCoupons.com/.